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[TR] Early Morning Spire- So Big Retard 8/14/2005


skykilo

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Climb: Early Morning Spire-So Big Retard

 

Date of Climb: 8/14/2005

 

Trip Report:

Hannah's a sport. She followed me on some retarded goose chase up Early Morning Spire when I blew it and got on the rock about 1k below the proper start.

 

Here's a photo by Lowell Skoog:

EarlyDots.jpg

The upper dot shows the approximate location of the start to the route in Kearney's book. We started at the other dot to make it a real climb.

 

Crappy disposable photo that shows the first seven pitches of what we did and some of the much higher pitches:

Dumbass.jpg

 

Some crappy climbing photos:

Climb1.jpg

Climb3.jpg

Penultimate.jpg

Summit2.jpg

 

 

Gear Notes:

Shoulda had the Courvoisier I left at camp for the unplanned bivy.

 

Approach Notes:

Trail, firn, scramble, firn, climb, glacier, scramble...

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wow that sounds like a megathon. I remember having fun on the actual route though. It was still a long day (got back to car at midnight) even on route. Your red dotted line shows you going up the left skyline but I think the typical line is up the middle, then traverse over right to the right side. At least that's how we did it. You should have tried that monstrous offwidth at the top to complete the epic.

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sky: you're crazy. nice work!

Marble Creek cirque is so beautiful and wild. looking down into the massive drop of forrest and devils club inspires one to climb up and out!

 

great TR on your site. so how did you like the west arete on the way out? wink.gif

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