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Greeen Dragon Beta


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Fired the Green Dragon this week. Pretty basic with a few exciting moves here and there. A small step up from the Town Crier here's what i brought.

Metolus: gey - red / doubled up on the blue - redWild Country: 2-#2 / singles through #5 + an extra #4 camalot and #4 Hugh Banner flexi-fit these last two ended up being just more wieght. Another purple Metolus would have been nice.Full set Wild Country Rocksdouble set of Hb brass RP's2 hooks: BD Sky Hook? & a talon-leave the talon2 cam hooks: mini & thin regularsix lockers / 10 free climbing draws / six extra biners / one double length sling.I also brought a hammer, 2 blades, 2 arrows, & two heads. !!There was absolutely no reason at all to nail at any time on this route!! What few fixed pieces were totally bomber, the only copperhead was on the last pitch and it's looking really good. So bring your hammer like a good climber should -- and leave it in the bag. didn't do the true first pitch, maybe next time.second: pitch was wet and mungy. long third: has a short pucker section. >100'fourth: is the goods, just killer. >100'fifth: well, when you get past my nut you tell me?

The best beta however is for the decent. - you can make it to the top of the second pitch from the top of the fourth. keep in mind that i have 200' ropes.

Just my opinion

Oh yea I almost forgot.The new owners of the index cafe have new hours. They serve up one mean Burger and a whopping plate of fries to boot. six bucks-now that's a steal

[ 04-05-2002: Message edited by: nightfly ]

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Re: Third pitch pucker section. Yes, the death block...A good bit of advice for anyone, if it's not already obvious when you get there, is to not use cams in that thing. It's a bathtub sized block that is hanging from beneath a small overhang, kinda stuffed up inside the roof. Not sure what is holding it in place. I didn't want to find out either. Doesn't seem expando but it pretty spooky and looks like a time bomb. I remember a nice #7 or #8 offset nut getting me past it, but I also remember thinking that the day this thing decides to pull, there will be carnage for sure.

Pitch one of GD is pretty straightforward, although I found that while soloing it, getting out of my aiders for the dirty free climbing section to the anchor had my full attention, since I was using a grigri and had to feed the slack in advance.

I have to agree, the start of the fourth pitch is pretty cool. Nice work.

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