[TR] Dorado Needle- NW Ridge 7/31/2005

[Snafflehunter]

Climb: Dorado Needle-NW Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 7/31/2005

 

Trip Report:

We approached from Eldorado TH and camped at 7800' below the E. Ridge of Eldorado. Running water was scarce until about 3pm at 7800 camp even with 80 degree temperatures (???). We left camp at 5:45AM and made our way to the col between Tepeh Towers (8040') by 6:15. We then crossed over onto the McAllister Glacier which was fairly mellow (see photos). We dropped and regained about 400-500' avoiding a 'schrund that spans nearly a quarter of a mile. Climbing on the NW Ridge was pretty easy (low fifth) with pretty good exposure on sound rock. The crux went at ~5.4. We belayed 2 pitches, but the route is 3 pitches in length from the notch. A long way to go for 2 pitches, but the views made it all worthwhile. I'll go back for the SE Buttress.

 

Photos:

 

Evening view of Dorado Needle from the summit of Eldorado:

 

McAllister Glacier from Dorado Needle:

 

Views from the summit:

 

More views from the summit:

 

More views from the summit:

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

used: crampons, ice axe, 8.3x60, cams (red and purple C4 were placed twice), lots of double length runners.

 

shoulda had: more beer