plark42 Posted August 2, 2005 Share Posted August 2, 2005 Hello CC'ers- I am planning a trip with a few buddies to climb mt. Shuksan via the Sulphide glacier. I wanted to know 1) what the summit scramble is like (difficulty, exposure, etc) and 2) what condition the glacier is in right now.. I have heard all sorts of different opinions about the summit scramble from easy class 3 gully to difficult sections of exposed low grade class 5 moves. Any pictures or info would be extremely helpful Thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 2, 2005 Share Posted August 2, 2005 It's an easy class 3 gully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snafflehunter Posted August 2, 2005 Share Posted August 2, 2005 At most, it's class 4. You can get into some class 5 if off route, but if you stay in the gully it's never more than class 4. Trip report here: http://www.sverdina.com/shuksan/shuksan5.htm Grainy image here: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plark42 Posted August 2, 2005 Author Share Posted August 2, 2005 Thanks... keep 'em coming.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted August 2, 2005 Share Posted August 2, 2005 If you try to climb it really early season (like say, May) it is VERY steep snow. Totally shut my partner and I down after we had no problems on the North Face. I haven't been up there when it's dry rock. BTW: It's not necessary to post the same question in both the NC forum and the CB forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted August 2, 2005 Share Posted August 2, 2005 yeah i had to guide that fucker in april! screw that bullshit, i herded em to camp and said avy conditions were bad...waited...and got my measely $150. No way would i get paid that to herd folks up in winter with absolutely no experience. that said, super easy in summer. no problem. do it, thousands of other have! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted August 2, 2005 Share Posted August 2, 2005 If you try to climb it really early season (like say, May) it is VERY steep snow. Totally shut my partner and I down after we had no problems on the North Face. I haven't been up there when it's dry rock. BTW: It's not necessary to post the same question in both the NC forum and the CB forum. Yeah, if you enjoy steep snow climbing, it was definitely steep in May when I did it. Perfect ass neve, and actually a very cool (and spicy) snow chimney to get on to the summit proper. That was one of the few snow pitches I have protected. It was fun tho! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juan Posted August 2, 2005 Share Posted August 2, 2005 4th class up the middle or climber's left; low fifth if you take the right skyline. When we did it last, via Fisher Chimneys last Aug., I stayed right behind my wife and we used no rope. If someone is above you, consider a different line or be diligent about looking and listening. Good luck, John Sharp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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