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colt45

[TR] Squamish- Cruel Shoes/Grand Wall/Upper Black Dyke (and more) 7/27/2005

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Climb: Squamish-Cruel Shoes/Grand Wall/Upper Black Dyke (and more)

 

Date of Climb: 7/27/2005

 

Trip Report:

This is an outstanding day of climbing--all 15 pitches are 5.10 or 5.11! I led Cruel Shoes as a block, then Yuko led the Grand Wall as a block. We each onsighted our block, and rounded out the day by swinging leads on the Upper Black Dyke.

 

Cruel Shoes was much safer than I expected, with new bolts throughout, no notable runouts anywhere, and apparently a new well-protected 5.10 variation on the "5.9 R" pitch.

 

The Black Dyke is safe and fun too, with nice shiny 1/2" bolts and a new pitch 2 variation that avoids a chossier part of the dyke. There are some loose holds and moss and some easier sections where a fall could be bad, so caution is warranted, but all around it's fairly mellow, exit 38-style 5.10b climbing on blocky jugs in a spectacular location.

 

Here is how we spent the rest of the week:

 

Sunday: Rock On (5p 5.10a), Exasperator (2p 5.10c), Apron Strings (2p 5.10b)

Monday: Sunblessed (3p 5.10c), Enlightened Direct (3p 5.11a)

Tuesday: Rest

Wednesday: Cruel Shoes (6p 5.10d)-->Grand Wall (6p 5.11a)-->Upper Black Dyke (4p 5.10b)

Thursday: Over the Rainbow (6p 5.10a), The Great Game (4p 5.10d)

Friday: Arrowroot (1p 5.10b), Rutabaga (2p 5.11a)

 

A full trip report with photos is here.

Edited by colt45

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what a great week you must have had! super climbs. exasperator - YUM! i haven't done a bunch of those yet and i'm envious. nice work! squamish is the shit. thumbs_up.gif

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