Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
ogre

rope diameter and length for Rainier ?

Recommended Posts

My partner and I are doing Rainier in August (D.C. route) and was wondering what diameter and length of rope we should use. I have an 8.8mm 30m rope we used for Baker but is that really enough. Of course, we don't plan on falling but should that happen what would you recommend in regards to rope dia. and length.

Thanks ,

Ogre

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have heard of two-person teams on a glacier climb using a rope with them dimensions... "ice floss" they call it.

 

just make sure that your prussiks will hold it... the thinner the main rope is, the thinner the prussik ropes need to be.

 

good luck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My wife and I used a 60m 8.8mm rope on Baker and on Rainier. To handle the extra length, we use a few loops at the ends and carry the kiwi coils. We like the lighter weight. To compensate for the "grab" of the slings we use 4 wraps instead of the usual 3. It seems to hold well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ogre, 30m should be fine for two people. As long as you don't need to pitch anything outthat is serious and carry enough of a coil between the two of you, you should be fine. I use a 30m 8mm rope. That being said, you better be able to arrest fairly quickly as it is just a party of two. I wouldn't leave any slack in the line, but a 30m rope should be plenty. Just put 40 feet between you and each carry 30 ft. of coil.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great,

Looks like I'm covered for rope then.I wasn't looking forward to the extra cost of another rope. At least not right now. Eventually I will as I would definitely feel safer with a 9.2 or better. Guess I'll be extra focused on my axe during the climb. Good advise on the the extra wraps as I do employ that method also on the smaller diameter rope. Thanks for the feedback!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For a glacier fall, you definitely do not need a 9.2 to be safer. The forces are pretty low compared to climbing. I've always used 8.4 mm, and it is not uncommon to see people using 7.6 mm (in both cases test and adjust your prussiking accordingly).

 

In your case, adding a third person to the team would do much more for your potential safety in case of a fall than any change to the rope.

 

drC

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's about 9000ft from Paradise to ths summit, so I'd say 20,000ft of rope should allow you to toprope it pretty easily.

 

p.s. Remember not to TR through the chains! madgo_ron.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×