ogre Posted July 28, 2005 Share Posted July 28, 2005 My partner and I are doing Rainier in August (D.C. route) and was wondering what diameter and length of rope we should use. I have an 8.8mm 30m rope we used for Baker but is that really enough. Of course, we don't plan on falling but should that happen what would you recommend in regards to rope dia. and length. Thanks , Ogre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Double_E Posted July 28, 2005 Share Posted July 28, 2005 I have heard of two-person teams on a glacier climb using a rope with them dimensions... "ice floss" they call it. just make sure that your prussiks will hold it... the thinner the main rope is, the thinner the prussik ropes need to be. good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted July 28, 2005 Share Posted July 28, 2005 I heard that girth is more important than length. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrailPair Posted July 29, 2005 Share Posted July 29, 2005 My wife and I used a 60m 8.8mm rope on Baker and on Rainier. To handle the extra length, we use a few loops at the ends and carry the kiwi coils. We like the lighter weight. To compensate for the "grab" of the slings we use 4 wraps instead of the usual 3. It seems to hold well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryland_moore Posted July 29, 2005 Share Posted July 29, 2005 Ogre, 30m should be fine for two people. As long as you don't need to pitch anything outthat is serious and carry enough of a coil between the two of you, you should be fine. I use a 30m 8mm rope. That being said, you better be able to arrest fairly quickly as it is just a party of two. I wouldn't leave any slack in the line, but a 30m rope should be plenty. Just put 40 feet between you and each carry 30 ft. of coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogre Posted July 29, 2005 Author Share Posted July 29, 2005 Great, Looks like I'm covered for rope then.I wasn't looking forward to the extra cost of another rope. At least not right now. Eventually I will as I would definitely feel safer with a 9.2 or better. Guess I'll be extra focused on my axe during the climb. Good advise on the the extra wraps as I do employ that method also on the smaller diameter rope. Thanks for the feedback! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Crash Posted August 5, 2005 Share Posted August 5, 2005 For a glacier fall, you definitely do not need a 9.2 to be safer. The forces are pretty low compared to climbing. I've always used 8.4 mm, and it is not uncommon to see people using 7.6 mm (in both cases test and adjust your prussiking accordingly). In your case, adding a third person to the team would do much more for your potential safety in case of a fall than any change to the rope. drC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted August 5, 2005 Share Posted August 5, 2005 It's about 9000ft from Paradise to ths summit, so I'd say 20,000ft of rope should allow you to toprope it pretty easily. p.s. Remember not to TR through the chains! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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