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hoppity

sir donald conditions as of july 25th?

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hey guys, i've been reading many posts lately. always great info here!

 

anyone have first-hand info on the condition of sir donald as of now? thinking of going at the end of july. saw the pics linked from cc.com from july 11 and burrr!

 

thanks to all.

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I've got a picture or two snapped from the Hwy from about 10 days ago. I'll see if I can find and post em when I get home.

 

Looked good though!

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Shoot. I was a bit busy last night, but I'll try to do that tonight. Not much snow left up there. thumbs_up.gif

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I was going to head out that way this weekend but found out today that there is a bear closure of Sir Donald trail. Not sure how rigorously they enforce these closures. Anyone else know??

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Thanks for the peak-porn dru. no worries alpinfox

 

just got off the phone with glacier national park and it dosen't look good for an open trail at the moment. mama griz and two cubs are still in the area. mama has shown aggression toward hikers (bluff charge - but i think i would fill my drawers if i was charged). bummer. could be a moot point anyway, looks like rain this weekend for r's pass.

 

perhaps a trip south instead of east...

 

cheers

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Oh, shocked.gif

just the picture of the route brings back memories of our unplanned bivy in 2001. Excellent views from the summit. thumbs_up.gif

We were working our way down when we can upon a couple of guys going slow. They seemed a little gripped and asked if they could join us on the decent. Our consciences got to us so we stayed with them. Hence the bivy. The sunset and sunrise was worth staying the night on the mountain.

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the bear closure was still in on the 31st. but your best bet would be to call Parks

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Just spoke with park employee - mentioned that folks are getting in via Glacier Crest Trail...I assume that's a bit more work than the standard approach. Weather, on the otherhand has been great.

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Tupper, Swiss peaks, Eagle, Uto, Terminal, and Sir Donald now dry following

the precip from early in the week. Sir Donald was climbed over the past two

days. Sir Donald might be short lived with precip expected by Monday.

 

Marc Ledwidge

_______________________________________________

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.

Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

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Dynamocrack and I traversed from the S ridge of the mighty Uto to the North

ridge of the majestic Eagle on the 18th--This is a great moderate outing,

with a just a little trickiness in between the two and a low choss factor.

It gets a rating of 48.6 on the Wolfe Training Day Quality Scale.

 

Yesterday (19th) we messed around on the Illysilly/N Terminal/Vaux, etc.

Great travel conditions, excellent crevasse bridges overall. Minimal

softening/boot pen but enough, at about 12:00 pm, to make for secure footing

on the steeper (30+ deg) due-South-facing snow slopes up N terminal,

2700-3000 m. Bridges on this slope and the Vaux (2 pm) were softening but

still passable with care. This got a 71.2 on the WTDQS.

 

Great overnight freezes, great weather, great climbing.

 

Regards,

Tom Wolfe

 

_______________________________________________

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.

Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

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MCR] illecilliwaet/asulkan

 

Just spent 5 days at Wheeler Hut/Asulkan Cabin with an ACC group, Aug 17-21. I climbed:

 

Terminal North, SW Face: good snow coverage on the face, no major schrund issues

Uto SW Ridge: dry (with Gerta, 68 years old)

Uto, again

Abbot Traverse to Asulkan Cabin (again with Gerta!): normal summer conditions, not recommended to go to Asulkan Cabin as it is a very long day, Sapphire Col is better

Jupiter Traverse: normal summer conditions

 

Asulkan Glacier: Firn line at about 2150 m (mid Cleaver). I descended from Sapphire Col twice. I tried the centre line beneath Jupiter but late day soft snow conditions, two tired people on board and a digital photo taken from Uto the day before that didn't show the saggy bridge over the one crevasse that spanned the entire small bowl you go through foiled that attempt. It might work in cold temps and a fresh crew. So we went down on bare ice and boulders close to the Cleaver. Awkward here, as usual. The next day I went down the normal ski line to the descender's right of the Cleaver. Lots of weaving on ice around exposed crevasses, some balancing across narrow ice bridges, one spooky snow bridge that I belayed across with an ice screw anchor. Lower down crevasses force you underneath the serac (which has been active) for a little while. Overall I found the route close to the Cleaver to be a safer option although rockfall could be an issue.

 

The ford across the stream to regain the Asulkan trail at the bottom of the moraine was as bad as I've seen it, worse than when I crossed it during the heatwave of 2003. We had to go down almost to the junction with the stream coming from the Pterodactyl. I got my feet wet but worse could happen in this place.

 

Couch time!

 

Mark

 

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

mark@alpinism.com

www.alpinism.com

 

_______________________________________________

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.

Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

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Snow yesterday23rd to the campsite. Sticking up higher. Wind from the east , deposit on the west . Warm temps over the next couple days sure to melt most of it. Be wet for awhile . Moisture expected over the weekend.

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