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Beacon Rock Notice


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why would you be rapping off that, though?


Uhhh,..... cause Joseph or Jim had stuck it in the day before and I was too lazy to change it! grin.gif


Nah, seriously, looking at the pic makes me cringe cause that block looks loose (in the picture). 1st thing I did when I got down there and saw it was look at the base rock carefully (it looked better from the other directions) then yard hard on that hex bodyweight plus several directions. I saw no movement. At all.


The rest of the story was that there were 3 equalized pieces, the others looked signifigantly better, being a LA driven to the hilt in solid rock and a cam in a separate solid crack.



And now you know......the rest of the story.


The next rap station for cleaning was interesting. I think the 3rd dude with JH and I was a bit edgy. I had a real solid A0 nut, 2-3 feet away in another crack a A0 cam and the bottom of the rope from the higher anchor I just detailed all tied in and equalized. 3 solid pieces, one of them a rope tied to 3 solid pices 150 feet up. I clipped my line and another to it (JH set his own rope on another set of anchors), but when I jugged back up to lower all the shit down and drop some ropes (JH had like 80 lbs in his haul sac alone) , I saw that the other fella had removed his line from my biners, put in like 6 pieces, and added 2 daisy chains off my stuff for backups.


I was thinking that I was glad not to be on a wall trying to break that collection down every pitch. grin.gif


I never saw that chockstone with the runner BTW. Looks like the earlier hex would have fit as well.

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Speaking of feeling nervous. The anchor and pin on Pipeline were replaced and this is the old bent pin that was there about 9"-12" above the small ledge you stand on at the top of Pipeline. It was only in about a 1/2" and fell out with the first, light tap of the hammer when I went to test it. And, yes, it is severely bent; that isn't an optical illusion. All in all as something folks clip when topping out it left a lot to be desired. There is now a bomb #3 Lost Arrow within an inch or two of this old pin's placement.



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I think (90 percent certain) the red/yellow stuff is Brians (Arnts partner).


Dunno about the Blue tape.



Nice pic of the pin! That's an awesome good deed replacing it with one of your good ones. Want to get in the office pool on how long until somebody starts complaining about you doing it? yelrotflmao.gif


I was thinking of that Sunday when I was picking up the glass, beer and pizza boxes at Rocky Butte. Wondering how long until some pinhead came up and started complaining about me picking it up. I caught shit from some dickhead for trimming back the bushes on top a bit ago. boxing_smiley.gif Pretty surprising.


Thanks again.


Hell, Bill, you were making me nervous at first but that stuff you had in was all solid - not an easy place to set three anchors (top of YW p4) for rapping off the west side of the ledge.


I really liked the way the rope ran over the edge right there. It was a gentle rounded shape and had an inch of moss for further protection.


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i pulled some pins like that out, on flying circus a few years ago, while cleaning it. i didn't replace them, because gear now fits where the pitons were.


there is still some shakey pins, on the climb, that would need to be funked out.


i'd love to take pics of flying circus, this year, if anyone wants to lead it!

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it's called 10c r in the olsen guide. but, with all the modern wide gear, i don't *think* it would carry an r rating anymore. i haven't led it yet, though.


it's a jeff thomas route from the 70's, so i doubt anyone will be down rating it anytime soon. grin.gif

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Kyle, you sound like a sick puppy dude! Wadda mean "so much fun cleaning". Cleaning is damn hard work. You are suppose to suffer and experiance nausea and pain! grin.gif


The only other person who tried showing up (Jim Robinson) only lasted 20 min before they bailed! Course, he rapped past a huge sharp loose stalagtite without uncorking/trundling on it, and he spent 15 min wondering what body part (s) that sharp thing would slice off if his rope dislodged it I think. Fortunately Jim named the Buttress though, very signifigant since he used my name! yelrotflmao.gif


Down to the last (best) route or 2.


Check your PMs! You, Jeff and I can finish this section off.


Do you give good belay btw, you looked competant as hell out as Beacon but I didn't tie in with you.


See ya, I gotta go get some ibuprofen and ice. Jeff and Kyle: local posts click here:--> PDX

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I'll be posting a list soon of South face columns that need cleaning. If all you hard men and women would each sign up to clean just one of them we'd have them all ready for whippers in no time. They all have new anchors so they're completely safe to clean and I have a dialed suite of cleaning tools available for folks to use. I'll be attacking a couple of the real hard cases that basically have bushes all the way up them like "Takes Fists", but there will still be plenty to go around...

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I will be attempting to tick off all 10c routes this summer so sign me up for your circus party. R? and rattling pins sounds fun. Your Pimp, snoop


snoop - your comments are priceless and worth logging on to cc.com for. see ya soon.

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I finally climbed out at Beacon for the first time. Great place! We climbed SE corner(why isnt there a hanger on that bolt on the crux pitch? should there be?), then came down and climbed and cleaned a little bit off of Wrong Gull and the 10c to the left of it. I forgot that ones name but the anchor is really poor, I think it needs a bolt or two, or at least the sling needs to be replaced.


I belive I found a dead perergrine on the trail just below the arch of terror or what ever. I dont know if this is a problem or not but I figured I'd pass the word along, it looked fresh and when I walked by 10 minnutes after the first time something had moved it 10 or so feet. I have a picture if any one wants to verify.


Anyways thanks to Joseph and all who have helped keep beacon a great place to climb!

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Turns out there are at least two young Peregrines and possibly three. The parents train the young by passing them things in mid-air. Of late we've seen them use a fish and a gull wing for training. I've seen one of the young flying across the South face with a gull wing obviously pleased with itself and letting the world know it (or at least that was my lay interpretation). I suppose it's possible you were watching three young ones squabbling or two parents training a young one. Not sure but I'll pass your observation on to David Anderson and see what he has to say...

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couldn't find any fools to climb w/ me so had to settle for doing endless laps up da corner - the highlight was def watching from the land of the little people as a peregrine ripped a dove he'd just caught into a 1000 pieces just at the exit from pitch 3 onto the grassy ledges - 2 just mature eagles circled the river for a good portion of the morning too

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