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Beacon Rock Notice


JosephH

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Beacon Rock Update - 1/24/06...

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!!!Caution!!! SE Corner Rockfall

 

Went out to Beacon today and got my ass kicked after three months of sitting on it. But I went out to survey the rock fall that occured earlier this month. It's a good guess that the ice took down a couple of pretty good pieces of stone and on impacting high up above Grassy ledges one big chunk bounced again and blasted the biggest branch off the SE corner tree angling to the East and another went West exploding above the first pitch of the SE corner raining rock around the base and sending at least one larger rock down by the tracks.

 

On there way down they took out some natural gravel/rock damns and so the whole of the SE corner is pretty strewn with a pretty exceptional amount of loose rock. Because of this anyone going out there for any reason should treat it more like an alpine setting with loose rock. Be doubly careful with your feet and ropes and don't linger under anyone - especially at the SE corner start.

 

And of course it closes next Wednesday. Again, we had already planned to do a pre-opening work session focused on the build up of loose rock up on Grassy Ledges - this just added a substantial amount of work to that effort.

 

Dog Carcass

 

Also, a couple taking the trail up didn't leash their dog and it unforunately left the trail and fell. Nothing to be done about it but the carcass is still there so don't be surprised if you come upon it. This was the second dog of the season to run off the trail to a bad end. Dogs on the trail up should definitely be leashed both for their own safety and that of others on the trail.

 

Joseph Healy

Beacon Rock Climbers' Association

Beacon.Rock@AvaSys.com

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  • 1 month later...

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Beacon Rock Update - 1/24/06...

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No more $5 parking fee - YEAH!!!

 

Wash. Legislature repeals parking fees at state parks

 

Seattle residents and other people visiting Washington's 120 state parks will no longer have to pay daily parking fees.

 

On Monday, Gov. Chris Gregoire signed a bill to repeal the fees that started in 2003. In a statement, she said the law helps keep the parks accessible to Washington state families.

 

Under previous parking rules, visitors had to pay a $5 daily fee or a $50 annual fee, according to the state parks system.

 

The Washington State Parks and Recreation Commission had required these fees to help keep the locations open and to maintain them, said Rex Derr, state parks director. Around 2003, he said, the state was undergoing a financial crunch.

 

The parking fees, he added, raised about $4 million each year. Fees for watercraft launching and trailer dumping are still required.

 

State lawmakers still need to find a replacement for this source of money, Gregoire said.

 

"But this work is not yet complete. I look forward to working with the legislature to put forward an alternative revenue source that is ample, sustainable, and reliable during the next legislative session," she said

 

 

Peregrine Monitoring

 

We will be cranking up Peregrine monitoring any time now so if you are interested in helping out give a shout...

 

Joseph Healy

Beacon Rock Climbers' Association

Beacon.Rock@AvaSys.com

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Great news on the fee.

 

Ivan is up for Peregrine locating. Anyone else?

 

We're coming up on the time of the troika of fantastica for climber/skier folks in SW Washington/NW Oregon.

 

1st) Rip some Fresh ones via borad(s) in the am till the sun hits and you are whimpering from the pain in your quads.

 

2nd) Climb some of the best moderate cracks in the world in the afternoon till you start whimpering from exaustion.

 

3rd) Head to Beacon and watch for Falcons but see the Eagles swooping, or do what I do and fall fast asleep in the car to finish the daylight till your wife calls via cell yelling where the hell are you?

 

Volenteers?

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Beacon Rock Update - 3/28/06...

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Early Opening / Peregrine Rumors

 

Just for the record. Peregrine monitoring has not yet begun and will only be formally initiated by David Anderson of the WDFW though we may start up on our own. This year's Peregrine's nesting status - both activity and location - are undetermined at this time.

 

Beacon is NOT opening early as of this time. That status may change if and when we determine the status and location of any Peregrine nesting or lack thereof. If, and that's "if", the Peregrines are proven not to not be nesting on the South face arrangements will be initiated with the necessary agencies to open it to climbing at the earliest opportunity after such a determination by WDFW.

 

For now the South face is closed and will remain so until either July 15th or until the WDFW determines otherwise. Thank you for your understanding, cooperation, and patience in this matter and rest assured we will be working to have the South face open as soon as possible.

 

Joseph Healy

Bill Coe

Beacon Rock Climbers' Association

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I just phoned the park itself at (509) 427-8265, the recording said that as of March 31, technical climbing remains closed on the South face, but is OPEN on the NW corner between boundary markers. It also said the parking day use fee is no longer required as of April 1st.

 

What's on the NW corner?

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Hanmi,

 

Yes, the NW face between the signs (just West of the parking lot / drinking fountain and East of where the tourist trail hits the rock) is open. There are a couple of short bolted routes that caused enough commotion to shut down development on the NW face a couple of years ago and beyond that most stuff eventually ends up fairly savagely run out as it stands now.

 

We are working with BRSP staff to resolve the development issues and hope to have new development protocols in place sometime this year so we can get back to it. As it stands now no new fixed protection is allowed. Again we will are actively on this one as there is the potential for some nice stuff up there. That said, if it's dry for a couple of days it's still worth exploring if you've never looked at it all...

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Just to the right of the parking lot (water fountain) are a couple of realy nice face climbs that protect with gear, they are both about 10+ and are not for beginer climbers, you can TR all of these routes by climbing up the 5.6 gully (dirty) to the big tree, if you climb the route directly under the tree, it is called Forbiden slab 10B, with a piton.

Way over to the right is a climb called Genesis, put up by the Flying Dutchman about 3 years ago. It goes at about 5.7 or so, there are a couple of bolts but they are optional. At that anchor you can step right and climb a bolted climb up to an anchor, from there you step left and climb the original line (Circa 1910 or so), using the original metal rods sticking out of the wall about 8 inches or so, your pro is slinging these.

Unfortunataly like Joseph said we are not able to develop any more over here due to some sensitive moss growing there.

But what is there is fun.

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Kevin,

 

We'll be able to develop over there again soon. The BSRP staff and WSP biologists weren't "sensitive" about the moss itself so much as the snow shovel one of our intrepid warriors was (somewhat innocently) using to remove entire slabs of it. There was simply a bit of a miscommunication and misunderstanding. The boys thought they were being told that the NW face was no longer considered "habitat" once it was designated as climbable. That was never true or an interpretation that even entered into the parks folk's mind. The whole of Beacon Rock is considered habitat - albeit, some parts of it more sensitive then other parts - and the explicit interpretation to be taken away from that is this:

 

You can climb, but do so with the least footprint and impact possible - i.e. skip the snow shovels and don't clean entire slabs and faces.

 

We're well on the road to getting the whole affair sorted out and put behind us and we'll keep you and everyone posted on that progress as we have something new to report...

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Such rumors would be a lot easier to track down if folks would either post up, pm, or email the source. No Beacon is not opening this weekend. I don't know if this coming from my talks with Jim O. about the prospect and process of opening or somewhere else - but again, Beacon only opens after David Anderson of WDFW signs off on it and BRSP has a chance to do a survey, change signage, and handle a couple of other tasks. I spoke with David last week about starting monitoring back up and he didn't say a word about opening given the Peregrines are just now sorting out nesting.

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joseph--

have you noticed any falcons?

 

it seems they would be there now, if they were going to be there. prairie and peregrine falcons are all over the place, down here in central oregon. i have found numerous pairs.

 

also, how come beacon rock has such a problem monitoring the birds? all over oregon, the birds are monitored and the cliffs open immediately when they leave. do you think they really care if it opens early or not?

 

thanks for the update.

 

mark

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Mark,

 

It isn't a matter of whether they are there or not - I have no doubt whatsoever that they are as I've almost never been out and not seen them regardless of the time of year - it's a matter of verifying where exactly they are nesting. David Anderson and the BRSP are fully prepared to open early if we a) verify the Peregrines are nesting somewhere other than the South face or b) have fledged. And monitoring Beacon is a unique challange as a 3D free standing structure; you sometimes have to really hump back and forth between the upper picnic area, the boat ramp, and the tracks back from the SE Corner. It's better to have two folks, one at the upper picnic area and one at the boat ramp so you don't have to shag it around all day long.

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Beacon Rock Update - 4/4/06...

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Early Opening Rumors

 

Just got off the phone with BRSP staff - climbing on the South face is most definitely not going to be opening this weekend. We are just now cranking up monitoring efforts and will be working with David Anderson of the WDFW and the BRSP to open the South face to climbing at the earliest possible time. Will keep you all posted about both the monitoring and any news of a potential early opening.

 

Joseph Healy

Beacon Rock Climbers' Association

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thanks for the response joseph and for your hard work monitoring the falcons. it's really appreciated.

 

my comment about "having a hard time monitoring the birds" wasn't directed at you and your efforts. it was in regard to beacons past trend of always staying closed from february 15 to july 15 without the chance of opening.

 

thanks again for your help.

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Mark,

 

No problem and I understand. I think Jim O. and Bill Coe can testify that we have a much better working relationship with all concerned at this point and we did open a bit early last year. I think we there is a good possibility for the same this year. We do need to do a pre-opening cleanup of what is now a ton of loose stuff hanging over the top of the base of the SE corner. That should just be a day or two however, and should be during the same couple of days the BRSP staff uses to get their pre-opening tasks and survey done once they get the ok from WDFW. Will keep everyone posted on that as well as the monitoring.

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