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underworld

solo aid

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I'm sure i've read it here before, but i couldn't find it in a search. but....

 

aiding solo - i've hear/read that a way to do this is by tying in with a clove hitch and adjusting it as you progress. aside from using soloing belay devices, is this the best way to do it? any suggestions for backing it up?

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Of course you back it up by tying figure eight loops to locking biners on your harness. A clove hitch may not be as desireable as a autotending belay device but it will get you started.

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Yeah, I know the feeling, sigh.

 

I was curious about this last year. I rigged a bomber multi directional anchor and proceeded up the way you described. The problem is it's really tiring to hang by one hand and fiddle with tying and untying knots, clipping and unclipping one handed all the while dragging a rope that seems to catch on every crack or horn along the way. you need to pay out enough slack to allow you to get to the next stance where you'll place pro. If you short yourself, you'll fat boy which is really frustrating. If you pay out too much, you risk decking. I found that the 5.6 that I would otherwise be able to solo turned into a challenging route with a lot of exhertion. It would have been fun if I wasn't worried the whole time about pro pulling and me decking.

 

My advice is find a route well within your soloing abilities. Make sure it's vertical and has cracks that take pro that will be bomber. Keep yourself backed up. Make sure your anchor at the bottom is fixed in opposition and absolutely bomber. A grigri or soloist device would make the exercise a lot more fun.

 

That said, be safe and have a cold bigdrink.gif ready afterwards.

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You said Solo AID, right?

 

Two 'biners, two clove hitches with 3-4 feet of rope between them. Build a bomber upward pull anchor at the ground and start climbing. As you move, alternate retying one of the clove hitches so that you are always tied in. No real need for backup, unless you don't trust a clove hitch on a locking 'biner.

 

You would protect the climb as normal.

 

Most times you would leave the unanchored end dangling so that it doesn't catch on anything, bu you could tie into it as well.

 

I doubt you will be moving fast enough for the system to be too much of a PIA.

 

Where you headed? I usually hit Index once a week for a little aid after work. PM me if interested

Edited by fenderfour

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