Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
JosephH

Chalk - you've got to be kidding me...

Recommended Posts

OK- Somebody please explain to me what is so terribly taboo about mentioning Beacon on these forums?

 

If all these supposed yahoos are hearing about Beacon online, why did I see a guy anchored to the tree on the Tree ledge, Portland Rock Climbs book in hand(!), shouting 10X to his belayer that he was off belay on Saturday!?

 

The book is ubiquitous! REI, PRG, US Outdoor, etc. Even if you are the quintessential gym climber, you know about "B.R."

 

The way I see it, Joseph has clearly explained the reasons behind the BRSP update. However, those in disagreement have failed, in my opinion, to convince me otherwise. It just seems personal, plain and simple. More that folks don't like 'how' he's going about things, rather than what the end result is.

 

I swear, I'm all ears. It's my personality to look at both sides of an issue. Please tell me and help me see.

 

But this blanket fear of "people" is flawed because I'm one of the newer climbers that head out to Beacon. (Kev, by your very admission, you were thrilled to see E and I on YW Saturday)

 

If something is a secret, you trust people NOT to tell others, but, (as is the case with Ozone) if you just mention to others to "keep it kinda quiet"- LOL, word will spread like wildfire. What happens is: Even if I tell only 'good folks' about a spot, they, in turn tell other 'good folks', etc. Point is- there are not just twenty good folks out there! See the flaw?

 

I mostly lurk on these sites and try to glean info. It's easy to see that people are upset with Joseph, but I'm having a difficult time trying to pin down concise reasons that aren't muddled with hubris and/or frustration.

 

I'm not even saying or expecting that everyone has to get along- I just wanted to pipe in and say that the "keep it a secret" point of view seems archaic, at best.

 

Sincerely,

phillip

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep, all three days out there this past week I think the only chalk was from one of the two guys I went with later in the week and he certainly didn't need it for the temperature or the friction. Not sure how well chalk would work when using ice for holds, but that might have helped last Sunday (either that or licking your fingers before grabbing it).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
only chalk was from one of the two guys I went with later in the week

 

Like we tried to tell you from the start. Rain, does wonders with chalk.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
only chalk was from one of the two guys I went with later in the week

 

Like we tried to tell you from the start. Rain, does wonders with chalk.

 

Well, and like I tried to tell you from the start, I don't like wading through the half a bag of the shit on the first half of first pitch of everything the first week when of all times it definitely doesn't need it - or waiting until winter for it to get cleaned. And it certainly isn't necessary this time of year. A drag folks put so little thought goes into its use.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
it definitely doesn't need it -

 

That would be your opinion, Mr. holyer than thou!

 

Dont you mean "you dont need it".

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, climbing in ripping cold and extremely dry east winds the premise of "heat" sweating is out the window. It's possible you are, as pink claims to be, one of the poor 1% or the population afflicted by Hyperhiosis (excessive sweating) and actually really need chalk inspite of the fact those dry east winds would be evaporating it at a rapid rate. Otherwise, the rock right now on the Corner, on Young Warriors, or on FFA/Dodds, requires no chalk whatsoever. You may require chalk, but that's your issue - there is no objective need for it whatsoever.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
We should go out there and hit it some time...

 

I want to, but have not climbed since Miles came into the world.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Well, climbing in ripping cold and extremely dry east winds the premise of "heat" sweating is out the window. It's possible you are, as pink claims to be, one of the poor 1% or the population afflicted by Hyperhiosis (excessive sweating) and actually really need chalk inspite of the fact those dry east winds would be evaporating it at a rapid rate. Otherwise, the rock right now on the Corner, on Young Warriors, or on FFA/Dodds, requires no chalk whatsoever. You may require chalk, but that's your issue - there is no objective need for it whatsoever.

 

pope joseph III , maybe someday i can be as rad as you. this thread should still be in spray, or are you above posting on spray. amen

 

Edited by pink

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

it's chalk season folks.

 

i musta used a bucket of chalk climbing in sun shiny eldo yesterday. in fact, i'm so addicted to the soft white powder i chalk up before almost everything i do. hell, i even took a bath in it last night. mmmm, chalk.

Edited by pink

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
it's chalk season folks.

 

i musta used a bucket of chalk climbing in sun shiny eldo yesterday. in fact, i'm so addicted to the soft white powder i chalk up before almost everything i do. hell, i even took a bath in it last night. mmmm, chalk.

 

I need to move there Andrew: I was out both days this weekend ( @ 500 foot elevation) and the only white stuff I saw flying was the occasional snow and some interesting soft ice pellets.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Andrew - whatever gets you back in shape and keeps you there! What's your schedule look like for this coming weekend and the one after that - I'm thinking of jamming out of here for one or the other given our forecast looks bleak and Vegas is already too hot.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i like the routes where you can't tell the differences between the holds marked w/ chalk and the ones covered in bird shit

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Andrew - whatever gets you back in shape and keeps you there! What's your schedule look like for this coming weekend and the one after that - I'm thinking of jamming out of here for one or the other given our forecast looks bleak and Vegas is already too hot.

 

 

Andrew here.

 

Chalk is good but you should only use it after having fallen off the move without it.

 

Don't expect to see me taking my advice, though.

 

And when sport climbing you can predict the fall and use the chalk in time-advance mode.

 

 

But I will be doing the birdshit traverse, today.

 

And on the subject of Beacon Rock:

 

 

 

 

Warning.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dude, wheres yer harness? BTW, not sure when you were there as the signs been gone a while, but you should look before you lean!

 

I was topping out a year or so ago and noticed that it wasn't attached at all on one side, totally rusted away. These pics are before I sanded, then primed it, cleaned out the rusty mank in the hole, put a spacer to minimize dielectric current (SS bolt-Steel railing) and placed a new Stainless bolt with the tiny "dawg" Aka Raindawg lite". Now we have a full sized Lil Dawg and can bolt freely and with less shame. The railing is old school for sure and defineatly worth preserving. Maybe this years project, (with ranger involvement) should be sanding, priming and painting these relics.

 

Beacon_Rock_trail_railing_distant.jpg

 

Closeup.

rail_close_up.jpg

 

Cairns, are you holding a big rock under there? :(

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
it's chalk season folks.

 

i musta used a bucket of chalk climbing in sun shiny eldo yesterday. in fact, i'm so addicted to the soft white powder i chalk up before almost everything i do. hell, i even took a bath in it last night. mmmm, chalk.

 

I need to move there Andrew: I was out both days this weekend ( @ 500 foot elevation) and the only white stuff I saw flying was the occasional snow and some interesting soft ice pellets.

 

come on down and grab some yourself some dry rock. :cool:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Andrew - whatever gets you back in shape and keeps you there! What's your schedule look like for this coming weekend and the one after that - I'm thinking of jamming out of here for one or the other given our forecast looks bleak and Vegas is already too hot.

 

 

Andrew here.

 

Chalk is good but you should only use it after having fallen off the move without it.

 

Don't expect to see me taking my advice, though.

 

And when sport climbing you can predict the fall and use the chalk in time-advance mode.

 

 

But I will be doing the birdshit traverse, today.

 

And on the subject of Beacon Rock:

 

 

 

 

Warning.jpg

 

you look like one of those socs from the outsiders.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×