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Middle Teton- NW Ice Couloir


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My partner and I climbed the NW Ice couloir last week and found it to be a good climb. The bottom third of the route was very thin on ice. The top of the route is connected to the summit. The biggest unknown going into the route was the lower rock section. We went around the first piller on the climbers right, then through the notch and around the second piller on the climbers left and through the second notch. Don't continue past the second notch and up the ramp. It looks like a good idea (and was pretty good/fun climbing :-), but will get you a bit off route and eat up a bit of time. Others who have climbed this route may think I am crazy, but the top section was good ice and seemed like about a 70 degree slope (not the 50 degrees in the books).


For pro we used a set of stoppers and four mid sized cams and a few screws.


It was a good classic alpine snow/rock/ice climb.


Have fun!

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