Divot Posted July 15, 2005 Share Posted July 15, 2005 OK, quik question regarding what gear, appart from your rope do you carry on a 2 person climb, how you distribute it evenly, and more........ Just simple enough, we all have to admit to setting our rigs on the living room floor, or the yard and workin it to perfection when nobody is lookin'.....So tell us. My system starts with an 8.5 50m rope with 10 coils off of each end in a kiwi coil, followed by a pulley/locking oval/short prussik/and my leg stirups made out of 5mm spectra cord, all attached as part of the system. I use the attached leg stirups with loops on the ends as my anchor attachment points once Im in self arrest, which also serve as my ascending leg stirups as mentioned. Since its a 2 person team, I like to have my gear ready so all I have to do is place my anchor and attach the rest, which then sets me up for my 6:1 system. The pulley,biner,prussik,and stirups are in my pocket on the ready for action. Its a really nice way to get your stuff set when the sh*t hits the fan and you find yourself in a bad spot. Photos will follow, let me know what ya think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj001f Posted July 15, 2005 Share Posted July 15, 2005 So you want us to write your book for you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Divot Posted July 15, 2005 Author Share Posted July 15, 2005 If you would like to write "a" book go ahead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Divot Posted July 15, 2005 Author Share Posted July 15, 2005 Now was that needed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kraken Posted July 16, 2005 Share Posted July 16, 2005 uhh...pickets...a few locking biners...a few. pullies, one each prussiks...two each ...not falling in a crevasse...priceless Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Divot Posted July 16, 2005 Author Share Posted July 16, 2005 LOL......So if you have just one pulley each.....Uhh...how do you pull up the other man if he is heavy.....Uhhh, Just kidding Clint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Divot Posted July 16, 2005 Author Share Posted July 16, 2005 I guess no one is gonna take this seriously....no problem, I already have all the material for my book someday, however, this is a serious climbing forum, and i know there are serious climbers here like myself. I do rescue work for a living, and have to remain on top of things, but like to share, and learn from others 'cause Im not stuck up or sucked into my job so much that I forget who I was before..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Crash Posted July 16, 2005 Share Posted July 16, 2005 There are a few dedicated to glacier travel and crevasse rescue out there. The ones publish by Falcon and the Mountaineers are the most common. There are other books dealing with rescue systems in geat detail. So what will make your book a compelling buy? Or is it an online book you're writing? There is less information on 2-person teams and basically no information on solo glacier and self-rescue. That could be an angle. drC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steddy Posted July 16, 2005 Share Posted July 16, 2005 about those pulleys -- i think it'd be wise to point out that many don't carry them as they only have one use, light and fast mentality tries to utilize multiple use items, and biners can substitute just fine. of course the pulley can be there to get you out of a pinch with heavier people + packs, high friction situations, or a drop-C (which could be done without one as well), and could make the difference in certain situations, especially the more difficult 1 rescuer scenarios. regardless of any argument over the decision to not bring pulleys, there are many well experienced climbers who will not bring pulleys into the mountains, including guides on personal trips. also, a fluke can be an easier first piece to get in and transfer the load to, then get an equalized back up when you can move around. ....fwiw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ketch Posted July 16, 2005 Share Posted July 16, 2005 I don't think that I have any special stuff to post. One thing that is important to remember on 2-ropes. When the other guy goes in you already have two prussicks (your texas set) hooked up. This really helps in the initial stages of escaping the rope and setting up the anchor. Hope your book works out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Crash Posted July 16, 2005 Share Posted July 16, 2005 Common alternatives to pulleys: - A biner (double use: biner, high friction pulley) - Tibloc and its accompanying locking HMS (triple use: locking biner, high friction ratcheting pulley, ascender; fourth use if you consider putting it on your rope during glacier travel is different than "ascender" which it really isn't) Any other good multiple uses gear? drC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Divot Posted July 17, 2005 Author Share Posted July 17, 2005 I dont like alternatives, cause of the high friction.... How many of you have ever lifted someone using biners as pulleys....? Its a bitch isnt it? If you every have: 1) You wished you did used pulleys cause your exhausted, and cursed yourself for not carryng 2 xtra ounces. 2) Your climb may be ended due to your partners exposure to the elements while you were working your heart off trying to lift him. 3) Do you want that?.....Is it worth it...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbconlin Posted July 17, 2005 Share Posted July 17, 2005 How 'bout those DMM Revolver biners with the built in wheel...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade Posted July 19, 2005 Share Posted July 19, 2005 I dont like alternatives, cause of the high friction.... How many of you have ever lifted someone using biners as pulleys....? Its a bitch isnt it? If you every have: 1) You wished you did used pulleys cause your exhausted, and cursed yourself for not carryng 2 xtra ounces. 2) Your climb may be ended due to your partners exposure to the elements while you were working your heart off trying to lift him. 3) Do you want that?.....Is it worth it...? I've tried this. Before I went to Denali we did a bunch of crevasse rescue practice on a small cliff. Trying to lift the dead weight of your partner and a sizable pack (no sled) is no joke. This didn't even take into account the additional friction caused by the rope knifing into the edge of the crevasse etc. For travel on large glaciers as a part of two you definitely want two pullies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted July 19, 2005 Share Posted July 19, 2005 How 'bout those DMM Revolver biners with the built in wheel...? that's what I have. perfect. pricey though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barjor Posted July 19, 2005 Share Posted July 19, 2005 There is less information on 2-person teams and basically no information on solo glacier and self-rescue. That could be an angle. drC So what would the recomended way for a solo self rescue be? I saw a guy on TV that was using two ice screws, one attached to his harness and one to his boots. Working his way up, sitting or standing while moving the screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith_Henson Posted July 19, 2005 Share Posted July 19, 2005 Each person: 2 person tm on isolated glacier: minimum: 2 pulleys (one can be smaller than the other); 2 prusiks (+ 2 prusik slings); 3 biners; 2 anchors (e.g., picket and ice ax). This allows each person to construct a "z" pulley (3 to 1) self-jamming prusik system. I have the prusik slings used for climbing out of the crevasse attached to the rope (the longer one ahead of the shorter), and the hanging parts coiled and stuffed in a pocket. I keep my prusiks used for extricating my partner, pulleys, and biners on my harness, or on a sling over my shoulder.These items must be immediately accesible because first task after stopping the fall is getting in the anchor and attaching a prusik to the rope and anchor to unweight the rope. Hope this isn't too elementary. This was taught to me by Tim Wilson. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Divot Posted July 20, 2005 Author Share Posted July 20, 2005 I just bought 3 DMM Revolvers and wanna see if I can tinker with my Tiblocs and made them work sorta speak. I think they will be ok, but with weight shifting, they may become a problem due to the pulley not securing the rope in, so we will see what happens under real weight. I will be up on the hill in about 2 hrs, and will put them throught the ringer with my work partner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gary_hehn Posted July 20, 2005 Share Posted July 20, 2005 Keith, add two more biners and a prusik and you can set up a 9:1 by z-pulleying your z-pulley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Divot Posted July 21, 2005 Author Share Posted July 21, 2005 Keith, add two more biners and a prusik and you can set up a 9:1 by z-pulleying your z-pulley. Duh............ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Divot Posted July 21, 2005 Author Share Posted July 21, 2005 Anyway.......I just got back from testing the DMM Revolvers, and as I suspected......NO GOOD as Pulley for crevase rescue due to an unstable platform. I like them, just not any better that a good ole' PM Pulley...... Thats it....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gary_hehn Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 While it may be a duh......, it is not described in Self-Rescue by David J. Fasulo. Instead examples of 5:1 and a 7:1 systems are described, both of which I feel are more difficult to remember. And only the 3:1 and 5:1 systems are described in any detail in FOH. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceIceBaby Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 Prussik are cool tiblocks are better, pulley is good traxion is better it is all about Efficiency Vs Weight for me also 1 picket or a fluke per person (conditions dependent) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Divot Posted July 21, 2005 Author Share Posted July 21, 2005 If you can learn a 6:1 then what is the big deal with learning and remembering a 9:1.....Its simple. So then get a different book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Divot Posted July 21, 2005 Author Share Posted July 21, 2005 I agree with you IceIB. I used to carry a mini traxion for a couple of years, just became a 2 ounce paper weight now...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.