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mrefranklin

North Face of Maude - will it go this late?

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Ive been up there quite a bit this year and last year I would recomend the Entiat Icefall this late in the year its really a much better route, its just not in Nelsons book so people dont consider it as much. While your up there have a look at the north face couloir it looks great in the right condition.

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I haven't been there recently, but the one time I climbed Maude N. Face was in late September. There were no significant late-season difficulties that I can recall. The traverse from the col was, as has been discussed in an earlier thread on this site, messy with a lot of loose rock but otherwise OK.

[This message has been edited by mattp (edited 08-16-2001).]

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Just wondering if anyone has been on the North Face of Maude in the last few weeks?

How is the traverse over from the Seven Finger Jack - Mt. Maude Col?

Where does the snow start and how do the conditions look for climbing? Better yet, any ice up high?

Thank you in advance for any information that can be provided.

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Thanks a lot you guys!

Kyagpa,

I'm looking for something that's solo-able this weekend. What is the approach up the Entiat Icefall like? I would certainly like to do something that won't have tons of people on it, but I was looking at the North Face just because I can make it a day trip while my normal climbing partners are out of town.

I'm fairly experienced so I feel comfortable with the steepness of the North Face, but I don't want to be anywhere that is heavily crevassed or that has more objective hazards (rockfall, etc.).

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I would think the N. Face would be a better choice for a solo, because it does not travel on a glacier. The crossing from the col is probably, if anything, safer to do alone and the steep wind roll at the top is much less serioius than many reports would have you think. I soloed it and I am not much of an ice climber. Despite the fact that it is in Nelson's book, my impression is that it is not crowded.

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We went to try the north face (not the entiat ice fall) last weekend and it is not in shape. The snow/ice is discontinuous all the way up the gully with large portions of what is there covered in debris.

micah

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Make sure you go all the way over to the N. Face to take a look. From the side it will not look continuous. Micah no doubt went all the way, but you may as well be sure. A party of three bailed last year over the July 4th weekend and reported to us on the trail coming out (we did the Entiat Icefall and walked out with them) that the N. Face had "fallen off." Sean Courage and friends reported two weeks later that in fact the N. Face was still there. Again, I think it's a matter of where you are when you look at it. Even if it's discontinuous, I'll bet you can still get up it as it's not real steep.

John Sharp

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Thanks Blister!

That's exactly what I have in mind. I think I might head out there tomorrow night and try and get to the base of the face early Sunday morning. Thanks for the beta. I'll post back with whatever I find.

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please do post your trip report i'm anxious to hear how it was I was thinking about heading up there on thursday or friday.

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Just did the Entiat last week, and approached it via the col between 7-Fingerd Jack and Maude. The North Face is Gone! For Sure!

Entiat Icefall Was Fine. Cheers

Tommy

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I scoped it out over Labor Day weekend and it's not in shape. There is exposed rock and it looks pretty thin.

The entiat ice fall looks doable, but there would be a little traversing and potentially a bit of scrambling mid-way up...

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Har dee frickin' har, danlo,

For those of you who didn't hear, I left my parked car at 1 AM to head in. I bumped into a bear on the trail, in the dark, at about 2:15. The bear retreated up the trail. Since I didn't feel like chasing him up the trail while I was all by my lonesome, I hiked out to the trailhead, drove out to the rest area on Hwy 2, and slept in my car for a while. What a spooky dark experience that was...

Obviously, I have no further beta to report on this outing...

E

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