advice in purchase of new rope

[goldenchild]

I just completed a general mountaineering course and would like to purchase a rope. It'll be for glacier travel most of the time. Ideally, I would like the rope for alpine rock as well. Is there a rope that's good for both? What diameter do you guys suggest? What length? Should I consider buying 2 half ropes and use one of them for glacier travel and bring both of them if I'm doing more alpine rock? Just to let you know what kind of trips I'll be doing initially, I live in BC and plan do some trips like Shuksan, Eldorado (Cascades), Wedge, Vayu, Joffre, Viennese, Rexford.

 

Any advice would be appreciated.

[dbconlin]

I would say either a 9.2-9.4 mm single rope or 8 mm double ropes would both be good choices. You might pair the single rope with a thin tag line for alpine rock. YOu can use the double ropes singly (i.e. a half-rope) for glacier travel.

[archenemy]

Do not buy a Beal.

[fenderfour]

I will second the "No Beal" sentiment. I picked up a 9.8 single last year and it's pretty chewed up after one season of use. I'm not impressed.

[Divot]

So where do you feel the difference between a 9.4, and a 9.2 since you know what you are refering to, we would like to know what your reasoning on the subject it....

[Divot]

Just asking considering its a small margin.....

[kurthicks]

I feel the difference on my back. The difference is about 6grams/meter. that works out to 360 grams (for a 60m rope) which is ~.80lbs.

 

A smaller diameter single is plenty good for alpine, but will have a short life if you plan to use it on rock too. There are a number of tradeoffs. I would go with the Beal Joker 9.1x60m (I like Beals for their low impact force ) or similar.

[Divot]

I agree, well said.

[larrythellama]

ropes are supposed to last longer then a year? we buy 2-3 a year and always buy the cheap ones as they do wear out.

[Dr_Crash]

If you're also going to crag with that rope, consider a bigger diameter like 9.8-10.2mm. Look at the number of falls and impact force in addition to weight to make your decision. It's a tradeoff.

 

For glacier, no need for a 60m. I have a 37 m Sterling 8.4 mm double which is just fine for a rope team (3 with coils or 4 without). You can also go under 8mm if you wish (resize your prusiks then!).

 

drC

[Divot]

What if you really need extra line to setup a cz and or other systems...what then....?

 

Im not challenging you by all means, I like to long rope, short rope, and all of the styles out there, however, the margin is there, what happends when ya need the extra line?

 

Id like to try the 37m method myself, just have to find a way to play with the idea on a 3 man team.

[dbconlin]

Beal Joker (9.1) = 53 g/m

Mammut Infinity (9.2) = 55 g/m

 

I really like Mammut ropes and would get theirs, but both of these would be great ropes and are light.

[billcoe]

ropes are supposed to last longer then a year? we buy 2-3 a year and always buy the cheap ones as they do wear out.

 

Yeah, but you're a Llama.

 

My advice is to by one that has a solid color middle mark, not a piece of tape like the Edelrids (although I love the Edelrid feel).

 

 

 

My friend bought a Lanex, it's awesome. Best "feel" of any rope I've ever touched. Needs a better middle mark IMO. http://www.mylanex.com/en/sortiment/horolezecka/jednoducha/rocky.php

 

I read on Rockclimbing.com that the Metolius Monster ropes are made by lanex, but haven't seen any yet.

 

__________________________________________________________

edit:

In previewing the Lanex site: they say they have a new permanent middle mark on their ropes.

 

Check them out for sure.

Edited July 19, 2005 by billcoe

[andrewbanandrew]

Mammut Revelation 9.2mm, 60m is on sale at REI.com for $162 if you use coupon code THANK25

 

The sale ends today. Certain Petzl headlamps are also on sale using the same coupon code.