telemarker Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 Climb: LIberty Bell-LCIAD Date of Climb: 7/9/2005 Trip Report: I know, I know. Liberty Crack TR's are about as commonplace as the W. Ridge of Prusik, among others. And doing it in a day doesn't even raise eyebrows. So, I'll post a few pics of mine and Kyle Flick's one day climb of Lib Crack. Basics: Started in Wenatchee at 2.30am, got to the base of the route by 6am, and was on route by 6.30am, topping out by 5.30pm. Not blazing by any means, but satisfying for a couple aid and free climbing gumbies that we are. Here's what I found out about the route that I didn't glean from prior TR's. The first pitch is the trickiest aid all told, though Kyle had no problem. The first pin encountered on the first pitch flexes under body weight. I was able to move it back and forth with my fingers while cleaning. The third pitch hook move is easily skipped by top stepping to a solid yellow alien placement. Being 6'1" and having a +6 inch ape index helps too. The rotten block pitch is the shittiest pitch, leading or following all told. After the rotten block pitch, I was able to climb a full rope length to pitch 8 (from the "Clint" topo), bypassing pitch 7, and the alternative higher belay. Kyle aiding up a wet first pitch. Flick jugging Lith Lip pitch. Jug on P. Three The top of pitch 5, long sustained stemming corner. Pitch 10 nice corner pitch. Alpinedreamer and partner topping out on NW Corner, NEWS. View from the top. Gear Notes: Rope 'n Rack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoran Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 Some of us dreaming of this "common" route. Thank you for the pics. Congratulations on excellent climb. Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 Good work guys! When are we going to Stuart? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 (edited) Dude, I'm sure I speak for everyone, INCLUDING all of us who have done that route in a day. You are welcome to show up here anytime with great pics like that of Liberty Bell. I mean, I'm sitting in a frigan cubical right now. Nothing in the vacinity compares to your TR. I don't care if it took you a week to siege it even, bring it all on! Great stuff. thanks from all of us: Side note: as I age I get stupid, so it took me a bit to figure this Acroynym out so I'l share, LCIAD = Liberty Crack In a Day. DOHHHH (Vs LBBECKYROUTEIAD? ) EDIT TO ADD DOHHH Edited July 13, 2005 by billcoe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fourteenfour Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 solid beta John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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