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[TR] Dragontail- Serpentine Arete 7/9/2005


ivan

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Climb: Dragontail-Serpentine Arete

 

Date of Climb: 7/9/2005

 

Trip Report:

climbing serp arete is coolest when you get the sharp end the whole way

 

rain

 

clouds

 

granite = good

 

i'd write more but i feel like a bilious, bibulous bastard at the moment - pix are better anyway

 

dragontail in the rain

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colchuck at its best on friday

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bob on the pillar pitch

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summit cheese and granite-graced hands

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icebergs at ass-master pass

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mandatory enchantment area goat-picture (other mandatory goat-related pic already sent to old fraternity)

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besodden bivy before the big run out (gotta dig tennis-shoes on the descent off the back side of DT1868DCP_1790-med.JPG

 

Gear Notes:

.5-3 camelots & green alien

handfullanutz

7 single n' 2 double slings (shoulda brought more of each)

 

Approach Notes:

mexican seafood

moist, ponderous pencil-fucks littering the trail the whole way in

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took an axe (very nice for the descent down aasgard too) - no cramps needed but expect to slip n' slide n' generally be pissed till hitting the flat snowfield over to the pass

 

no snow barring the route up to the summit, but you could fill waterbottles at 2 places en route w/ snow if needed - it was quite cold y-day and i didn't even finish the liter i brought though.

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the shield's perm bolted to the helmet - put it in after getting stitches in me forehead while dt'ing this winter (the day before the life insurance folks showed up for the physical too! might explain why i was considered "not desirable"). nice to have when aiding or in blowing snow too...

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