Jump to content

RMI Accident


barjor

Recommended Posts

The instructor motioned to the people behind me to do a fall to see how I would react under a more realistic situation ( I didn;t know it was coming)Big difference when you don't know it is coming.

 

That is why I like to have the rope not taught when going uphill. I like that extra second to hear someone yell "falling" before I get yanked at the same time they yell "falling". See thread here:

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/s...true#Post332174

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

IMHO I don't think it would matter a whole lot whether the line was taught or not this stuff happens fast BTW I think most anyone would leave some slack in the rope unless they were totally ignorant and shouldn't be doing the activity anyways.There was slack when my training session was happening. I truly believe the main factor in making the even slightest bit of difference in reaction speed is conditioning and being aware of emergency situations along the route and certainly luck never hurt. I am most definitly sure the guide is in excellant shape.Speculation is one thing go check it out for yourself. Like i said it all looks good on paper. I have wondered about some of the things RMi does since safety is a priority with them especially dealing with less than experienced clientele. I will probably get a lot of flack for this since I don't know shit but. I wonder about some of the stuff RMI does. At about 13200-13500 (if I remember correctly) there has been the last couple of years a traverse on a steep section about 50 feet long with a life ending crevasse on the downhill side(huge)ROPED parties cross this section routinely with no protection Self arrest is IMPOSSIBLE and in my opinion should at least be crossed unroped so only 1 person loses their life if a fall occurs . To me 230 am seems way late to leave muir Seracs on the headwall heating up and breaking, killing people late in after noon (1980or 81 there was a little incident at the traverse between the flats and base of cleaver. Anyways I am rambling and setting myself up for abuse but it has been a while.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

At about 13200-13500 (if I remember correctly) there has been the last couple of years a traverse on a steep section about 50 feet long with a life ending crevasse on the downhill side(huge)ROPED parties cross this section routinely with no protection Self arrest is IMPOSSIBLE and in my opinion should at least be crossed unroped so only 1 person loses their life if a fall occurs .

 

Instead of going unroped, why not put a picket or two in?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Would your response be the same if a death was involved. I must be the only one seeing my reasoning. I was merely saying unroped is a better option than high risk otherwise. I was pointing out that protection should be placed on a RMI route in those situations read it more slowly and I am sure it will come to you

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was on the Kautz Glacier route yesturday at about 10,200 feet when all this happened. A white helicopter was flying back and forth all around the south side of the mountain, and I thought maybe something had happened, then I learned that they were taking human waste off the mountain.

 

Shortly after, the Army helicopter flew right over my head towards, then over Muir. It went out of sight and I knew something had gone wrong. It then lifted off and flew right over my head again.

 

When I got off the mountain today, I was barraged with several messages on my cell phone from people who thought I may have been involved.

 

Anyways, I hope those four guys are OK.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Would your response be the same if a death was involved. I must be the only one seeing my reasoning. I was merely saying unroped is a better option than high risk otherwise. I was pointing out that protection should be placed on a RMI route in those situations read it more slowly and I am sure it will come to you

 

You could write it more slowly too; your writing has a dearth of punctuation.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I climbed this route 2 years ago with RMI (their private climb program) and our guide did protect this section with a couple pickets. The attached photo shows my partner moving through one of the anchors. Perhaps it's left up to the guides' discretion...

475003-dc1.jpg.73f37dbbfc040c811c9051a61cff15cc.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Boys, boys. Sorry to jump in here, but I can't resist, even if it means you'll slander my mother and dead relatives in addition to myself.

 

Having just read the entire thread, I can't help but agree with Dan in his opinion that unroping is better than climbing roped but unprotected, and that roped AND protected is best of all. (fixed lines, on the other hand... hmm)

 

However, Dan, I think the only one lessening your opinion is you. Stop being a little bitch yourself, clarify if some of us don't get your typed dialect right away, and be secure enough in your opinion that you don't have to sling shit when someone offers a little constructive criticism.

 

Soapbox put back away. Go to town if you like. If not, sincere thanks for offering some constructive dialogue that will hopefully make people think (again!!) about the un-wisdom of unprotected roped climbing, whichever approach they decide to take.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

John Lucia is indeed an experienced and strong guide...I've been on a rope with him on an RMI guided trip. He knows what he's doing, but this is an example that an inexperienced client like myself can not only endanger himself but his rope team as well. goodluck and speedy recovery to all injured.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The masses have spoken, I can live with that. Suz you should have been on this site a couple years ago it was not only acceptable to use the term little bitch in an endearing manner but it was protocol.I usually handle an insult with a return insult. I see you slipped yourself in calling me " a little Bitch.See how fun it can be ? Deep breath , aahhhhh. Now don't you feel better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The instructor motioned to the people behind me to do a fall to see how I would react under a more realistic situation ( I didn;t know it was coming)Big difference when you don't know it is coming.

 

That is why I like to have the rope not taught when going uphill. I like that extra second to hear someone yell "falling" before I get yanked at the same time they yell "falling". See thread here:

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/s...true#Post332174

 

This is why the accident happened. Is because there was slack in the rope and the client built up speed. The conditions were really icy and the guide was putting in pro, when the client walked closer to him(to talk or something), putting slack in the rope and then fell, pulled another and then the guide. Apparently, there is still a long visible gouge in the snow where the guide tried to arrest the fall.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...