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plark42

beginner glacier climb

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I am a NOLS mountaineering alum and I know the basics of glacier travel. My girlfriend is new to the sport. Where is a good place to go where there is easy glacier travel (close to Portland) so I can teach her rope techniques and crevasse rescue? Thanks! cantfocus.gif

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I highly recommend Mazama Glacier on Mt Adams. The setting is spectacular and the route is quite reasonable.

Best if you have 2 nights, but doable in a regular weekend if you're both fit.

EDIT: this is recommended as a first glacier climb, hopefully after some rope and crevasse practice

Edited by Chriznitch

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Depends on when you want to go, but the Elliot Glacier on Mt. Hood is awesome for ice bouldering, lowering down into crevasses and practicing crevasse rescue. It opens up a little more later in the summer and is usually dry by August/September.

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Is the Elliot Glacier in good shape to practice on in July? Will I be able to use pickets and flukes or should I bring some ice screws? How hard/steep is the Hogsback up Mt. Hood? I've heard everything from easy and 35 degrees to icy, tough and 45 degrees. Guess I'll just have to get up there and figure it out.

 

Thanks for the responses- I will definitely look into the Mazama glacier route up Adams!!

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Screws are better on elliot since it's mostly hard pack. Flukes will do no good, but you can bang in pickets (and destroy the ends in the process). Could also dig a trench for an axe and do a dead man.

 

Hogsback conditions vary from easy to icy depending on temps up high, but doubt it exceeds much more than 45 degrees.

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