[TR] Middle Sister- North Ridge via Renfrew Glacier 6/24/2005

[PVD]

Climb: Middle Sister-North Ridge via Renfrew Glacier

 

Date of Climb: 6/24/2005

 

Trip Report:

After being assaulted by mosquitos while packing up our gear, my partner and I left the Obsidian trailhead around 8:30 Thursday night. We made camp at 11 p.m. about 4.5 miles in after a brief detour on the wrong trail and a long search in the dark for a decent campsite. We hiked in snow for the last mile or so.

After four hours of sleep for me, and just two for him, we hit the trail around 5:40 Friday morning. Snow was pretty continuous from the PCT junction on up. The sky was perfectly clear and the views of North Sister, Middle Sister, Mt. Washington and Mt. Jefferson were awesome.

The snow was a bit firmer as we began our ascent, but still too soft for crampons. Around 8,200 feet, where the glacier levels out, we hit a stretch of bad snow -- breakable crust with soft stuff beneath -- that was really tedious and time-consuming. My partner even resorted to crawling on all fours for a bit to avoid the really frustrating post-holing. He got up before I could snap a photo.

At this point, we wondered whether the snow near the summit would be safe. Luckily, at about 8,700 feet -- and after about an hour of post-holing hell -- the snow firmed up as the slope steepened, and we gained the North Ridge. After a little scree, we climbed a stretch of steep snow carefully, staying to the right to avoid a runout that led over a cliff to our left. The snow was firm enough to kick good steps that held. I had read that the slopes were never steeper than 35 degrees on this route, but we both felt we were climbing 45-degree snow in this stretch.

We topped out and hiked snow to the summit and breath-taking views. We summited shortly before 11, spent about 20 minutes on top, and carefully descended the softening slope.

We saw one skier heading in on our way out, but no other climbers. The skier said he planned to turn around at the ridge due to the soft snow.

A fun climb, and the first Middle Sister summit for both of us.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Needed ice axe, really needed gaiters

Brought crampons, didn't use Could have used snowshoes

 

Approach Notes:

Trail has some snow starting around 6,000, but it's easy to follow up to the PCT.

Edited June 27, 2005 by PVD

[Chriznitch]

I had read that the slopes were never steeper than 35 degrees on this route, but we both felt we were climbing 45-degree snow in this stretch.

where did you read the misinformation? The steep part on the North Ridge is approx. 50 degrees.

Anyways, good job on staying safe

[Couloir]

I had read that the slopes were never steeper than 35 degrees on this route, but we both felt we were climbing 45-degree snow in this stretch.

where did you read the misinformation? The steep part on the North Ridge is approx. 50 degrees.

I don't think it's so much as misinformation as perhaps some confusion. Thomas' book refers to "the average gradient is less than 30 degrees." But then later refers to "a short (150 feet), steep (50 degrees) section on the North Ridge. Maybe that's what we're talking about here.

 

I've climbed it both in February and in July, and I would agree that it can vary significantly in sketchiness between those two times. But either time was frankly a piece of cake. I enjoyed the February trip much more.

 

Good job! Great TR!

[PVD]

Thanks.

I didn't get our route information from that book you mentioned. I gathered information from a bunch of trip reports and other sources online. The mazamas website lists the steepest grade at 35 degrees, and I think that's why I got that number stuck in my head. Of course, that site also says the route has 4th class rock, which doesn't quite jibe with the listed grade.

Edited June 28, 2005 by PVD

[TJD]

The first time I went up the north ridge I made a wrong turn like PVD. We went to Obsidian falls, nothing steep on the north ridge though.

 

The next time we went in one day and had just poles and light boots. We hit some steep stuff on the north ridge. A mazama group ropeing up thougt we were insane on all fours with colapsed poles.

 

It seems to vary year to year.

[PaulO]

My wife and I took four of our kids (ages 8-17) in the same route 2 weeks ago. Went in to base of mountain 7/11 and spent 2nd night at 8700' level. Trail is all melted out now. Beautiful sunset. Tried for the summit Wed. but the same steep snow patch about 9500 you mentioned forced us to turn around. Ice with 6-10" of slush over it. Too much for the kids to risk. This has been pretty permanent the last 5 or 6 years. I have been going up there since mid 70's and this steep snow below the summit was never there years ago. Weird, as the glaciers in general are shrinking. Came down Thursday and spent the night near the meadow. Driven out by mosquitos Friday. Even the repellant did not help the kids.

[iain]

Apparently the mosquitoes in the Obsidian area are dropped in from another world. Our mere earth-based repellents are useless. Something like a bomb squad outfit might work. Those are weapons-grade mosquitoes.

[gapertimmy]

no shite! i was goigng to do a little hike up the PCT from devils lk, and i got hammered at 7am, in the sun, on wickiup plains by mosquitos. no water in site. extrterestrial bugs for sheezy.

 

good job on getting out there! middle sister, so much more fun with corn.

[mattp]

The Sisters can produce some seriously bad bug swarms. If you want mosquito's, go check out Red Meadow, below the east flank of South Sister.

 

One thing that makes them more tolerable is to at least keep them off your face. Get a piece of mosquito netting and sew it into a pillow case. Then wear it over a brim hat.