Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Juan

[TR] Mt. Maude- N. Face 6/26/2005

Recommended Posts

Climb: Mt. Maude-N. Face

 

Date of Climb: 6/26/2005

 

Trip Report:

Kurt Hicks (Wazzumountaineer) and I climbed the N. Face of Mt. Maude yesterday after camping Sat. night in Leroy Basin. Jens K. and partner did it on Sat. in a day, and Sergio V. and partner did it recently too, as a day climb. Undoubtedly others have done it in the last few weeks. Needless to say, there are tracks to follow.

 

The snow conditions are getting firmer, making it slightly less of a slog. As Kurt noted, the route is almost steep enough to be interesting. In a month it should be firm enough for crampons, maybe sooner. Right now it's helpful to have a second tool for double plunging, and rope and crampons may or may not stay in the pack depending on one's comfort level on moderately steep snow. There is more snow on the face (and traverse to the face) than when my wife, Erik Snyder and I did it in a day in early July 2001.

 

Leroy Basin is snow free and flowers are blooming. We poked around for the summit register in the snow, but it is either buried or missing.

 

Gear Notes:

Ice axe and second tool;

Short rope, pickets, and crampons currently optional.

 

Approach Notes:

Don't miss the uphill turn after the big river crossing (Leroy Creek?)!

Edited by Juan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Full size pics

 

Sunset on Maude

3720mt_maude-med.JPG

 

Juan on 7FJ-Maude Col traverse

3720Juan_on_Traverse-med.JPG

 

Maude North Face

3720maude_north_face-med.JPG

 

Juan chilling with the Death Cornice

3720death_cornice-med.JPG

 

Fat marmot posing in Leroy Creek Basin

3720marmot-med.JPG

 

This was a pretty fun trip. Thanks Juan for the burger and Jens for the steps. Time to go back and do the N. Ice Couloir... thumbs_up.gif

Edited by wazzumountaineer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It looked like some 4th of July fireworks from the Muckleshoots would blast that house sized cornice. Or as the guy who was with me, chriss said, patrollers in Colorado carry dry ice piss bottles to blow em' up with. Anybody make one of them?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A couple more thoughts: The cornice is much smaller than it was two Thursdays ago when I went up 7FJ. Sergio and partner watched a piece come off the right side the following weekend, I think. We were on Jens' tracks at the very bottom, then saw no tracks in the middle of the face until the very top where two sets merge. I mention this only because we went up the debris channel directly below the remaining big chunk as the snow was much firmer. It seemed cold enough that the big guy would stay put, which it did. But it is possible that stuff is still coming down and erased the majority of Jens' steps. Jens could speak to this maybe. Anyway, be careful and enjoy! It's a fun route.

 

John

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ahhhh...I know, I know. Andy B. and I were thinking the same thing as we climbed the face. The snow was actually soft and forgiving enough for a relatively worry free knuckle-dragger descent...providing the cornice stays put.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There is more snow on the face (and traverse to the face) than when my wife, Erik Snyder and I did it in a day in early July 2001.

 

 

Your wife's name is Erik?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hah hah, hah, hah. Hah.

 

No, her name is Kirsten, you buttmunch. The comma is there for a reason. Had I written "my wife Erik Snyder, and I, did it in 1999," or "my wife (Erik Snyder) and I did it in 1999," or even "my wife Erik Snyder and I did it in 1999," you'd have a point. As written, it's a series, like "red, white, and blue," or "red, white and blue."

 

We like Erik an awful lot, but not that much. Nice try though.

 

John

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We skied the route on 7/4/05, after approaching from the South Route. While perhaps not steep enough to be an interesting climb, it is certainly steep enough to be an interesting ski descent, particularly for mediocre skiers such as myself.

 

Roughly half an hour or 45 minutes after the descent, we watched the Death Cornice self-destruct and sweep the face with debris (we were traversing to the col at the moment). It should no longer be a hazard to climbers.

 

The South Route is nearly devoid of snow, and the descent from Jack-Maude col has only a few patches left. The Face proper has plenty of coverage, and the approach traverse is easily negotiable.

 

-Paul

 

maude.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd guess 50 degrees at the top, and mostly 40-45 below the top 100 feet or so. Those are just my estimates though.

 

Forget all this nonsense about whether it's an interesting climb or not. It's gorgeous back there, and I'd go climb it if I wasn't into skiing stuff of that nature.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I completely agree on all points, Sky. And I'll bet it's much more interesting of a climb when it's actually icy. Either way, though, it's a nice place to be.

 

Way to go on the ski, Paul. Were you with Sam A.?

 

John

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 trip reports, a TAY report, and a feature-length video? I think your ski trip has now been documented.
I disagree. A fourth should be added sometime soon. the_finger.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 trip reports, a TAY report, and a feature-length video? I think your ski trip has now been documented.
I disagree. A fourth should be added sometime soon. the_finger.gif
Yes, we'll be going this weekend. Do you think aluminum crampons would be fine for this route? We want to go light and do it in a day.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×