Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
CascadeClimber

Baker, North Ridge

Recommended Posts

quote:

Originally posted by highclimb:

just keepin this at the top


Can you do that? Isn't there rules against monopolizing the message board? grin.gif

Good photo.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ryte....ummm thats weird.

ok come on this is popular route on a popular mountain. someone must have done it in the past week?

Aidan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great TR, CascadeClimber. Good photos too and the beta will be great for anyone else that happens upon it. Same with the Ice Cliff trip.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Aidian (did I spell that right? :-))

Here's some info from a friend who did it last weekend:

-------------------------

 

It was a real pain to get across the Roosevelt glacier --- very dark, because of clouds, and we got about 500' too high, so had to descend, then the last several hundred feet up to the route seemed impassible... tried forever, and finally got through with some religious bridge crossings and jumps. A couple years ago it took us 1.5 hours to get to the base of the climb, this time it took over 4 hours! (was getting so late, 8am, that we almost turned around).

Mostly we were above the bad weather by this time.

We did the direct start, which (because there wasn't much snow) ends in scree/rock rather than snow/ice.

The ice arrete was in funky shape too -- on the mellow side of the arete it was slushy-corn-ice-that-doesn't-take-a-screw, and on the the steep (right hand out of the sun) side it was ok. So we wandered left and right: left for the easier climbing, right to place the screws. good fun.

Above the arete the weather came in -- couldn't see much of anything. The seracs near the summit were a real surprize to me, I didn't remember seeing them from below, so I was a little confused. Looking up at them in the fog through my polarized sunglasses, the first one looked like a gigantic north-face-of-everest-5km-high-made-of-cracked-rock. I took off my glasses and couldn't see it anymore, so I decided it was funny-icky-weather-clouds.

Then suddenly the fog let up for a second and we realized it was an ice serac --- 50m tall of something, but only 5m away from us (which is why it looked 5km tall). The crevasse crossing to get around that thing on the right was the scariest crossing --- not difficult, just frightening cause you could see the light coming up through the snow below you for metres and metres.

Lots of people on the summit (1pm), but we were alone on the ridge. It took 5 hours from the lower icefield to summit, so in the end it was ok in terms of time, after wasting so much on the Roosevelt.

 

The Coleman-deming descent is in really excellent shape (regardless of the warnings from the ranger). We descended it at 1pm, and it would have been ok to descend any time of day (even though it hadn't frozen overnight for us).

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×