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Guiran

[TR] Glacier Peak Attempt-White Chuck Glacier 6/19

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Climb: Glacier Peak Attempt-White Chuck Glacier

 

Date of Climb: 6/19/2005

 

Trip Report:

Failed in an attemp to climb Glacier via the White Chuck Glacier route Sat/Sun due to lousy snow conditions. We planned to skirt Disappointment Peak to the east on the Gerdine Glacier. However, after traversing ~200 ft out onto the glacier (15 degree) we heard multiple loud "whumps" and quickly turned back. Tried going over Disappointment, but encountered steep frozen crust over badly consolidated snow and turned back around 9300'. From the White Chuck Glacier on the way out we believe we saw the crown from a very large slab release on the south side of Glacier. Looks like a little more consolidation is needed up there.

 

We entered White Chuck basin by skirting White Mtn. to the east on a climber's path, then dropping over one of the notches. This was pretty slow going. It looks like an easier, though slightly longer, approach might be to go north on the PCT towards Portal Peak, then ascend the drainage. Anyone have thoughts on this?

 

Gear Notes:

Crampons, ice axe

 

Approach Notes:

Road open to NF Sauk trailhead. Snow level around 6000 ft. Crossing Red Creek is cold!

Edited by Guiran

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