LUCKY Posted June 20, 2005 Share Posted June 20, 2005 I had been trying to do Condorphimine Addiction 10-B in Levenslab for some time , but something always happened , like the rain storm on Sunday of Rockfest So my partner that likes to call me dad because of our age difference ( I guess that's because I have been call'n him Son )says for fathers day he will pack the rope for dad and we can do CA ,he will even let me have the crux pitch.. what a guy!! I can't get my kids up off their couch, let alone up a thousand feet of vertical gain I lead pitch 1 and 2 in one pitch ,partner leads 3 and 4 in one pitch, I than lead pitch 5, partner leads pitch 6 and I finished the the walk to the top of pitch 7. We started at 6:30 at the trail,the sun hit us on pitch 3, 6 hours car to car with over an hour of sight seeing ,nada sole did we see and the weather was the best. NOW THATS A FATHERS DAY PRESENT! There use to be a lot of negative spray about this route by a few I thought it was killer and one the most well engineered routes I have been on , and the guys that put it up deserve a metal for all the hard work they put into this route ....just think about lug'n harware and your butt up and down that hillside multi times to clean and establish such a fine route. Leland and Ron a special thanks to you for Condophamine... I'm addicted And a special thanks to my partner Rusty (son)killer day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted June 20, 2005 Share Posted June 20, 2005 fun route for sure. glad you enjoyed it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted June 20, 2005 Share Posted June 20, 2005 Dude, the spray is for the abundance of bolts within arms reach of cracks...for gods-sake there is an older yoder or briody line that climbs that part of the wall to the climbers left of the boltladders the entire way. line is somewhat cool but nothing to send in to alpinist... I mean, Beckey thought it was an OK route. Yeah, They did a bunch of work, but a medal? Come on lucky.... for the record, I have climbed CA and the one to the left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LUCKY Posted June 20, 2005 Author Share Posted June 20, 2005 Dude, the spray is for the abundance of bolts within arms reach of cracks...for gods-sake there is an older yoder or briody line that climbs that part of the wall to the climbers left of the boltladders the entire way. line is somewhat cool but nothing to send in to alpinist... I mean, Beckey thought it was an OK route. Yeah, They did a bunch of work, but a medal? Come on lucky.... for the record, I have climbed CA and the one to the left. Not trying to stir you up but ....with over 2500 posts how do you find the time to climb and Thank you for all the fine routes you have put up for me to enjoy, can't a guy give credit where credit is due and say something good without a bunch of negative spray, I guess Becky and I are just a couple of dumb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted June 21, 2005 Share Posted June 21, 2005 Not trying to restir the shit either... all I meant was Beckey implied there was a LOT of bolts. And as for the posts, many were made back when I hung out with ERIK down in Oly/Tac area...not that it matters so whatever. Btw- years ago I met you at Nevermind with Niki Wells... I do believe all 3 of us were almost hit by a random falling rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Figger_Eight Posted June 21, 2005 Share Posted June 21, 2005 Miller and I climbed the route on the Saturday of Rockfest - you're right...it's a super fun route. I gotta agree with Szyjawhatsit though. The amount of work the routesetters put in could've been reduced a lot by not hauling up so many bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LUCKY Posted June 21, 2005 Author Share Posted June 21, 2005 BOLTS!! Oh my god... I clipped them all... but than again I am such a clip whore Which ones did you guys skip? Bolts get me through times of fear better than fear gets me through times of no bolts I hiked farther for Outer Space because like CA it's way cool, but I would not hike to the base of Condor for the other routes there ,what it is, is what it is! Did not mean to step on anyone toes , but I back up climbers that put up routes I enjoy... it's thankless hard dangerous work! Let's climb and discuss it over this keyboard is giving me a pump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StickBoy Posted June 21, 2005 Share Posted June 21, 2005 Glad to see you finally got to climb it. Wish I could have been up there with you guys but I was to busy drinkin' (Autum and I's new hobby). The route is super fun for sure. Climb with ya later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dechristo Posted June 21, 2005 Share Posted June 21, 2005 "Bolts get me through times of fear better than fear gets me through times of no bolts" a paraphrase of Free-Wheelin' Franklin late '60's, early 70's classic reference Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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