inacan Posted June 16, 2005 Share Posted June 16, 2005 Anyone know anyone who knows anyone who has ever done this route? The term paper guide says "12a unrepeated?", but that was ages ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted June 17, 2005 Share Posted June 17, 2005 Yep. Tom, who owns Vertigo in Seattle has done it in the last few years. Â Sexy Cocoa? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted June 17, 2005 Share Posted June 17, 2005 dave mirales has done it...as has bob i think... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inacan Posted June 17, 2005 Author Share Posted June 17, 2005 Well that makes at least three in the last oh 15 or 20 years. Sad. The route is an Uber Classic. I was thinking that it could use a bolt at the exit of the slot before the roofs above but on second thought it would just make us weaker than we all ready are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted June 17, 2005 Share Posted June 17, 2005 Beware guides that state "unrepeated". Often the author just doesn't know about it or it's been done since publication. Smoot always says Supercrack in Leavenworth is unrepeated but it's been done a few times at least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted June 17, 2005 Share Posted June 17, 2005 I was thinking that it could use a bolt at the exit of the slot before the roofs above but on second thought it would just make us weaker than we all ready are. lamer is more like it. adding bolts to dumb it down is poor form....look fwd to the day i am brave/strong enough to throw myself at that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted June 17, 2005 Share Posted June 17, 2005 Justin Sjong has done it also... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted June 17, 2005 Share Posted June 17, 2005 When is he going to free the Town Crier? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted June 17, 2005 Share Posted June 17, 2005 never...he doesn't live here any more...bigger fish to fry, so to speak... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 17, 2005 Share Posted June 17, 2005 dave mirales has done it...as has bob i think... Â ya i happened to be there on a day he was doing it with another guy named dave and hey my name is dave. that was weird. mirales was doing laps on iron horse full. he's strong. Â dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted June 17, 2005 Share Posted June 17, 2005 Post deleted by Bill_Simpkins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted June 17, 2005 Share Posted June 17, 2005 Dave did it first. Polish Bob also did it in either 97 or 98. He climbed it free, but was not an onsight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted June 17, 2005 Share Posted June 17, 2005 Dave's name is spelled "Morales". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 17, 2005 Share Posted June 17, 2005 Dave did it first. Polish Bob also did it in either 97 or 98. He climbed it free, but was not an onsight. Â But was it a flash or could cockchafing "magazines" tell difference or too busy pizzle tizzle a sheep? Get balls off chin nancy boy or you'll get flashed by more than that talk shit but can't OS 12a such chuffery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted June 17, 2005 Share Posted June 17, 2005 I think its been climbed a bunch. Even by a girl! Â In the 80's most people didn't climb it because it was dirty. A few good samaritans over the years have cleaned it up quite a bit. Â Don't forget to bring a couple slings for the top. Rope drag isn't the problem as much as levering out otherwise good pro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted June 17, 2005 Share Posted June 17, 2005 i heard superDave (Morales) used to climb lovin arms before breakfast (solo)...anyone know about that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inacan Posted June 17, 2005 Author Share Posted June 17, 2005 First you said... lamer is more like it. adding bolts to dumb it down is poor form....look fwd to the day i am brave/strong enough to throw myself at that one. Â Then it was.. man or index inbetween. the route will only get more traffic when it gets retro'd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted June 18, 2005 Share Posted June 18, 2005 huh, are you stalking my bullsheit statements? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted June 18, 2005 Share Posted June 18, 2005 No, I remember the week that Dave soloed the DH/LA twice. Note: Dave's name is spelled "S-U-P-E-R" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted August 9, 2005 Share Posted August 9, 2005 My understanding is it's "Moroles". Â Sad that he isn't climbing anymore (if true), since he was the most graceful and fluid climber I have had the opportunity to witness and climb with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwrts Posted August 9, 2005 Share Posted August 9, 2005 he still climbs. I saw him last season at index but he was spraying about his new sprayskirt or something boat related. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwalling Posted August 9, 2005 Share Posted August 9, 2005 If you add a bolt you are a lame fuck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soulreaper Posted August 9, 2005 Share Posted August 9, 2005 I don't think that one needs a bolt...you can just as well step over to the Saggitarius anchors if need be, although my only ascent of that V-slot has been on toprope (soon to change). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted August 9, 2005 Share Posted August 9, 2005 For what it's worth I am pretty sure that he was thinking of above the Vslot. The route climbs through the roofs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted August 9, 2005 Share Posted August 9, 2005 (edited) Why would you even think of adding a bolt to an existing route, yet a super classic route. The full route protects fine. The pro might be a little spaced out above the v slot, but if you can do the lower sections, the roof should be cake. If I remember correctly the roof protects with anit and you have to make sure to sling it so rope drag won´t yank it out. Then you might get an RP or a small nut up high. Edited August 9, 2005 by TimL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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