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RuMR

Benchmarks for ratings...

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Catbirdseat's partner post got me to thinking/dreaming...where do benchmarks come from?

 

It seems to me that ratings that used to/should be considered as a "benchmark" have now fallen into the "sandbag" category...

 

So...let's hear yer benchmarks for various levels...I'm bored silly right now... wazzup.gif

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What? So you can ridicule us because we think something is harder than you do?

 

You first.

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I think PP is on schedule...

 

Chuck, the concept of a benchmark is pretty valid...not trying to ridicule anyone...but come on, look at index ratings, for example, compared to the exits and newer areas...compare those to yos...or seneca or the gunks...jeezus...

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I pull out my 1974? Ascent and use Bridwell's ratings...

link

 

That's very helpful the those of us poor bastards who haven't climbed in Yos. yet. Care to throw up some appropriate local benchmarks? Otherwise i'll have to declare Air Guitar a solid, sustained, 10a moon.gif

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I agree. Give us some benchmarks.

 

5.8? 5.9? 5.10? 5.6?

 

I think Beckey has some benchmarks in the Brown Beckey. I think Outer Space is one of his benchmarks for 5.9.

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Not that long ago Outer Space was rated 5.8+, Classic Crack was rated 5.8 amd Meat Grinder was rated 5.9.

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5.8...how's about the third pitch of central pillar?? right side of cookie?

 

5.9 how's about 2nd pitch of reed's? (now go and compare that to Reptiles...yelrotflmao.gif that's pretty much 5.6 or 5.7 really) godzilla? what about something like princely? (trying to stay local here a bit)...how about OS

 

5.10? Split maybe, what about BOC or most of thin fingers? compare that to exit 5.10's and you will see why i'm just rolling on the ground sometimes...for face climbs...i don't know, maybe wedding day, stoners, or how's about bbq?

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Not that long ago Outer Space was rated 5.8+, Classic Crack was rated 5.8 amd Meat Grinder was rated 5.9.

 

pretty soon they'll all be rated 5.12+ grin.gif

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but it's a 5.8 in the top of the grade... AUS Grade 16 not AUS Grade 15

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Some of the older Castle Rock climbs seem like good benchmarks.

 

5.4 - Saber and Midway

5.7 (Original Beckey Rating) - Angel Crack

5.9 - Crack of Doom

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Which one's don't belong? grin.gif

 

5.4: GNS, Tooth South Face, Midway

 

5.7: Diedre, Angel Crack, Spiderman

 

5.9: Moonshine Dihedral, Outer Space, Godzilla, Crack of Doom

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smith:

Peking: 5.8

Moonshine Dihedral: 5.9

Cruel Sister: 10a

Badfinger: 10b

Nine Gallon Buckets: 10c

Moons of Pluto: 10d

 

Word. 2nd pitch of Zebra is another nod for 10a. Both pitches of Peking are benchmark 5.8.

 

11a Lions Chair, Zebra Direct

11b Wartley's Revenge

11c Strawberry Blonde

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Rumr's boss here!

 

I think a benchmark for rumr would be trying to figure out how to get some work done around here. This has to be pushing 5.14 for rumr.

 

Now get back to work!

 

moon.gif

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I was told on my first trip to Yosemite that the second pitch of Bishops Terrace was considered "The 5.8" that was used when devising the Yosemite decimal system. I have often wondered what the other Yosemite benchmarks are. Anyone know?

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I was told on my first trip to Yosemite that the second pitch of Bishops Terrace was considered "The 5.8" that was used when devising the Yosemite decimal system. I have often wondered what the other Yosemite benchmarks are. Anyone know?

 

That story is unlikely to be true given that the YDS was really developed in So Cal => TDS.

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I like this explanation the best...

 

Subdivisions of class five climbing

 

In Mountaineering, Freedom of the Hills, author Ed Peters explains the subdivisions of class 5:

 

"The experienced climber, having accomplished or attempted free climbs of varying degrees of difficulty in the YDS class 5 range, gains an understanding of the level of difficulty involved. To the beginner, however, these ratings are simply a set of numbers, understandably, easy if rated 5.0 and impossible if rated 5.13. To provide a slightly better understanding within the class for the beginner the following tongue-in-cheek description is provided:

 

5.0 to 5.4

There are two hand- and two footholds for every move; the holds become progressively smaller as the number increases.

5.5 to 5.6

The two hand- and two footholds are there, obvious to the experienced, but not necessarily so to the beginner.

5.7

The move is missing one hand- or foothold.

5.8

The move is missing two holds of the four, or missing only one but is very strenuous.

5.9

The move has only one reasonable hold which may be for either a foot or a hand.

5.10

No hand- or footholds. The choices are to pretend a hold is there, pray a lot, or go home.

5.11

After thorough inspection you conclude this move is obviously impossible; however, occasionally someone actually accomplishes it. Since there is nothing for a handhold, grab it with both hands.

5.12

The surface is as smooth as glass and vertical. No one has really ever made this move, although a few claim they have.

5.13

This is identical to 5.12 except it is located under overhanging rock."

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