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RuMR

Benchmarks for ratings...

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I wonder how many people that start off in a mountie basic class and read that list of definitions go on to actually climb 5.12 or 5.13, vs. the number of people that start climbing in a gym?

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I wonder how many people that start off in a mountie basic class and read that list of definitions go on to actually climb 5.12 or 5.13, vs. the number of people that start climbing in a gym?

and how about the people that did neither?

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Realization: 5.15a

Action Directe: 5.14d

Just Do It: 5.14c

To Bolt....: 5.14a

 

I figured since I'm the FIRST ONE to suggest sport climbs amongst all the trad suggestions, I should pick some proud lines that have stood the test of time.

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just do it has been said to be 14b by a couple of people boxing_smiley.gif

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I agree. Give us some benchmarks.

 

5.8? 5.9? 5.10? 5.6?

 

I think Beckey has some benchmarks in the Brown Beckey. I think Outer Space is one of his benchmarks for 5.9.

 

5.5 Saber 1st Pitch

5.6 R&D 3rd Pitch, Midway 1st Pitch

5.7 Bathtub Dome 2nd Pitch, Champagne 1st Pitch

5.8 Party in Your Pants, Classic Crack, Givler's 1st Pitch

5.9 Awanaduya, Blockhead (Exit 38), Theresea's Lingerie (Vantage), Jam Exam (Tieton)

 

The first pitch of Midway was 5.5 when it was put up, but it has been polished smooth by thousands of boots. Classic Crack was 5.8, but is given as 5.9 in the latest guide. If you know how to jam, it's 5.8. Seems like 5.9 just because it is more sustained than most.

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This reminds me of something I encountered at Leavenworth this weekend- what is 5.8+ supposed to mean? Our theory was that it meant... 5.8.

 

From Another Thread:

I seem to remember reading somewhere or other (maybe here) a more realistic ordering of grades, that went something like this (based on my memory, and personal experience up to easy 11s), from easier to harder:

5.4 to 5.8

5.10a

5.9

5.8+

5.10b

5.9+

5.11a

5.10c

5.8 squeeze

5.10d

5.11b

5.10+

5.9 ow

5.12a

5.11c

5.11d

5.10 ow

5.12b

5.11+

5.12c

and so on...

up to the max: Rockies VI 5.9 A2

 

Other interpretations of our beloved YDS?

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ratings and gradesare for chuffer to stroke to get cock out of your mouth and hands off the ruler either you can climb it or can not and if so just shut the fuck up weakeling pussy whipped yuppie and go back to your latte and harry potter

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just do it has been said to be 14b by a couple of people boxing_smiley.gif

 

But Yuji and Francois got bouted royally. boxing_smiley.gif

 

And what about Whores of Babylon (14.b) at "always overrated" Exit 32. Any 2nd ascent??????

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ratings and gradesare for chuffer to stroke to get cock out of your mouth and hands off the ruler either you can climb it or can not and if so just shut the fuck up weakeling pussy whipped yuppie and go back to your latte and harry potter

Chuffer?

chuffer.jpg

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won't be long til Josh send whore...as long as erik worked on it, i don't doubt the rating of that route...I think Mike Orr did it also...but am not sure of this...

Edited by RuMR

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ratings and gradesare for chuffer to stroke to get cock out of your mouth and hands off the ruler either you can climb it or can not and if so just shut the fuck up weakeling pussy whipped yuppie and go back to your latte and harry potter

 

OMFG! Dru has been possessed by the spirit of PolishedKnob!

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I think endless bliss at farside has got to be the benchmark 5.10a slab for the northwest. That thing is so hard and sustained. Plus the runouts make me want to crap my pants.
Sarcasm alert! It's 5.8.

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Minx has got it! bigdrink.gif

 

I have been thinking about starting to rate things with language instead of numbers. Let's call it what it is, subjective thumbs_up.gif

 

Ratings are a moveable feast.

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Language doesn't get you sponsors. But then again, neither does 5.8.

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As I get better, of course, GNS will drop to "easy". However, if I attempt it after returning from K2 and recovering from pnuemonia, it may feel like "a shitty day to be climbing".

 

 

 

 

Sorry Rudy if this is a little sprayish. Ratings are a bit nebulous to me still

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