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Benchmarks for ratings...


RuMR

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I agree. Give us some benchmarks.

 

5.8? 5.9? 5.10? 5.6?

 

I think Beckey has some benchmarks in the Brown Beckey. I think Outer Space is one of his benchmarks for 5.9.

 

5.5 Saber 1st Pitch

5.6 R&D 3rd Pitch, Midway 1st Pitch

5.7 Bathtub Dome 2nd Pitch, Champagne 1st Pitch

5.8 Party in Your Pants, Classic Crack, Givler's 1st Pitch

5.9 Awanaduya, Blockhead (Exit 38), Theresea's Lingerie (Vantage), Jam Exam (Tieton)

 

The first pitch of Midway was 5.5 when it was put up, but it has been polished smooth by thousands of boots. Classic Crack was 5.8, but is given as 5.9 in the latest guide. If you know how to jam, it's 5.8. Seems like 5.9 just because it is more sustained than most.

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This reminds me of something I encountered at Leavenworth this weekend- what is 5.8+ supposed to mean? Our theory was that it meant... 5.8.

 

From Another Thread:

I seem to remember reading somewhere or other (maybe here) a more realistic ordering of grades, that went something like this (based on my memory, and personal experience up to easy 11s), from easier to harder:

5.4 to 5.8

5.10a

5.9

5.8+

5.10b

5.9+

5.11a

5.10c

5.8 squeeze

5.10d

5.11b

5.10+

5.9 ow

5.12a

5.11c

5.11d

5.10 ow

5.12b

5.11+

5.12c

and so on...

up to the max: Rockies VI 5.9 A2

 

Other interpretations of our beloved YDS?

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ratings and gradesare for chuffer to stroke to get cock out of your mouth and hands off the ruler either you can climb it or can not and if so just shut the fuck up weakeling pussy whipped yuppie and go back to your latte and harry potter

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ratings and gradesare for chuffer to stroke to get cock out of your mouth and hands off the ruler either you can climb it or can not and if so just shut the fuck up weakeling pussy whipped yuppie and go back to your latte and harry potter

Chuffer?

chuffer.jpg

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ratings and gradesare for chuffer to stroke to get cock out of your mouth and hands off the ruler either you can climb it or can not and if so just shut the fuck up weakeling pussy whipped yuppie and go back to your latte and harry potter

 

OMFG! Dru has been possessed by the spirit of PolishedKnob!

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As I get better, of course, GNS will drop to "easy". However, if I attempt it after returning from K2 and recovering from pnuemonia, it may feel like "a shitty day to be climbing".

 

 

 

 

Sorry Rudy if this is a little sprayish. Ratings are a bit nebulous to me still

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