Mt Berge, Zen Arete

[joe_catellani]

Mt Berge is NW of Buck Mt in the Chiwawa River area. On 6-23-93 Garth Ferber and I gained the crest of the east arete just west of the twin towers from the north. We climbed 17 mostly mid 5th class pitches near the crest. Probably many ways to go, the first third of our climb was usually half a rope length below the crest on the south, then generally on the crest or very close. To avoid a bivy we did not climb the entire arete-instead we traversed west on a ledge and climbed a snow gully to the summit. there might be another 4 pitches to complete the arete. 16 hrs RT from a camp at 5800' on Cleator's east ridge. IV 5.7 ?

The approach is up Buck Creek trail about 5 miles,then the trail descends slightly for 100 yards to 4240' in timbered area. Cross Buck Creek and ascend the wooded east ridge of Mt Cleator initially on game trails on the north side then a good trail on the crest. At 5800' descend a little to the south and contour the basin. High Pass, west route on Mt berge, and Mt Cleator can be reached by continuing up the basin.

I found the rock quality and the area's scenery to be good enough to come back a month later with Gordy Skoog and climb the east face. Because a schrund blocked access to the right slanting ramp across the face two 5.8 pitches on the wall to the right were climbed. The ramp consisted of 700' of clean slabs (class 3 to 5.0)with little opportunity for pro until directly below the summit. II 5.8 Include small pro including TCU's.

The Berge affair continued into 1994 when Garth and I came back and climbed the twin towers, calling them Buson and Basho after the Zen poets. Each has one 70-80' pitch up to 5.8 from the notch between them, best reached from the south. bring small tcu's.

I'd like to hear from anybody who repeats the Zen arete , particullarly if they finish the complete arete. PS you can bail to the south with only one rope.

[This message has been edited by cascadeclimbers (edited 06-22-2001).]

[joe_catellani]

pic link didn't work in original, another try

[joe_catellani]

ok, one more try. you got to see the pic to appreciate the route

<A href="http://home.att.net/~jcatellani/wsb/html/view.cgi-image.html--SiteID-179781.html"></A>

http://home.att.net/~jcatellani/wsb/html/view.cgi-image.html--SiteID-179781.html

[Dru]

So Joe Catellani is wotan of ballard? what will be revealed next - that Erik is boltmonster?

[mikeadam]

Wotan I love the summit Guru photo! I'm rolling... http://home.att.net/~jcatellani/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-179785.html