Ponzini Posted June 14, 2005 Share Posted June 14, 2005 (edited) Climb: Joffre East Ridge and Conditions Report-East Ridge Date of Climb: 6/12/2005 Trip Report: I'm posting this more as a conditions report than a tale of mountaineering triumph..... Paul H and I climbed the East Ridge of Joffre on Sunday. The route featured terrible snow, greasy snowed-up rock and plenty of running water - but it also had some nice climbing and even a few views. We gained the ridge by a slippery step and placed some pro due to the wetness. We then waded our way up the snow arete, which would have been quite nice except for the waist deep mush. At one point I placed a picket to protect a traverse, and even after digging down four feet it sunk into the mush almost under it's own weight! The rock pitches were initially quite wet and greasy, but the upper pitches were nicer where the rock was steeper. The last pitch had some 45 degree mush that was chest deep (and I'm 6'0). Any movement on steep (>45 degree) snow usually set off destructive point releases. Needless to say the east side couliors aren't in climbing shape at the moment, and all of them have cornices, mushrooms etc looming over them. However, the schrunds are still closed, so if we get a bit of hot weather the snow should tighten up and the deathliness should fall down. Til then, stick to the ridges! Gear Notes: Some hexes and a rope. Coulda used a canoe paddle for the snow pitches. Edited June 14, 2005 by Ponzini Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 14, 2005 Share Posted June 14, 2005 way to get out in shitty conditions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoran Posted June 16, 2005 Share Posted June 16, 2005 (edited) Congratulations on good climb. Todd you are amazing! I know you are strong and this was easy for you. I hope soon I will do it (when is drier ) Edited June 16, 2005 by Zoran Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ponzini Posted June 17, 2005 Author Share Posted June 17, 2005 Zoran, you are too kind! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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