Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
DPS

Denali Attempt

Recommended Posts

Mtnfreak,

 

I was at the 14K camp a few days after the accident and spoke to park rangers who were on their way up to put in fixed lines. Since I was engaged in my own unsuccessful attempt on the Upper West Rib, I didn't go up to Denali Pass to confirm the fixed lines. If I'm wrong and there are no fixed lines only picket at Denali Pass, my sincere apoligies to all I have misled. That's the last time I believe anything a park ranger says.

 

Mughjie

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, and I thought I brought dense reading matter along on climbs.

 

Pynchon, Delilo. Why not bring some Foucault and Derrida for kicks too?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

as far as i know, and the last time i was there, the guide services work together to place and maintain the pickets across the autobahn. my last time across the autobahn i cleaned the traverse and walked into 17 camp with about 30 pickets attached to myself - not only was it heavy but i couldnt get them off either. it has a bit clostrophobic with the weight and not really being able to move at that point.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just found this thread.

 

Some of my thoughts on the trip:

I had a great time and am not disappointed that we didn't summit. just hanging out at 17K and catching views of Foraker and Hunter were more than enough for me to feel like it was all worth it. Take the time to enjoy the scenery since being back in the office sucks.

 

People climb Denali for all sorts of reasons, especially for the "trophy" of climbing the high peak of North America. I never got this summit fever and am amazed how people can go back year after year to try this route (except for the beauty of the Range). Good for them, but it's not my definition of climbing.

 

I was amazed by how physically easy it was and my muscles were never tired. my hardest days though were the carry days to 13,5 and 17K, but the move days were a breeze. I attribute this to being my first time at either of those altitudes. Our longest travel day was 5.5 hours on the move to 17K.

 

There are pickets on the Denali Pass traverse, just clip and go (dig out if necessary). Tie in long (30+m) if you're on a team of 2 to have a picket between you at all times. There is one piece of fixed line at Washburn's Thumb and a picket here and there on the ridge.

 

I'll post some pics today or tomorrow when I get the chance.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
My sled wanted to kill me.

 

What type of sled did you use? Why did the sled want to kill you? I am looking into getting one.Always wanted to hike around Mt Adams in the winter.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Plastic kiddy sled. It tried to run me down while going downhill. I used sled brakes with some measure of success.

 

I would recommend buying a plastic kiddy sled and rigging it with ridged poles that attach to your hips and the front of the sled. This will keep it from running you down and will give it lateral support while side hilling.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
This will keep it from running you down and will give it lateral support while side hilling.

 

It may keep it from ramming into you but wont do jack for lateral support whilst traversing a slope.

 

A better way--if there are two of you--is to be roped up and have a prussik running from the back of the sled to the rope. If you practice good rope management, i.e. keeping it fairly taught between the two of you, gravities pull on the downward side will be minimized. There's no way of completely eliminating it but this was the best we could do.

 

We tried the PVC pole attachment to the sled worked ok for keeping the sled fram knocking into you from behind but you still have to be careful that you dont get knocked off balance when the poles get slammed with all that weight.

 

Sleds suck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Perhaps most importantly:

 

DPS and I met Annabell Bond's guide for her April Denali climb. Nice guy with some interesting insights into her climbing mentality. Dinner and bigdrink.gif had at the West Rib Pub.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
DPS and I met Annabell Bond's guide for her April Denali climb.

 

Who is Annabell Bond?

 

Regarding sleds... A pole setup is nice but few climbers haul them. Getting to Alaska is hard enough with out a giant sled thrown in as well. Most climbers opt for the sleds the air taxi services provide (which are in a big pile at KIA). These sleds tend to be crummy cheap plastic sleds but work well enough. If you're not bringing your own sled I suggest you fly in a few pieces of plastic garden hose and 6 mil cord to reinforce the sled so it doesn't shatter when it rockets into your heels as you're doing turns down ski hill. Still - regardless of all your efforts your sled will still try to kill you or at the very least try to dislocate your knee.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

this works ok, but can get a bit rough on the uphill guy on a traverse. coming down around windy corner on our way home last year was exciting. i was the uphill guy. bare ice, downhill wind, my sled hanging down straight below me, mark's sled hanging off the rope tied to my waist, i was cramponing down leaning back so far my shoulder was almost touching the slope as BOTH sleds tried to kill me. good times.

 

for skiing downhill, i found it convenient to wrap a piece of 6 mil cord around the sled to slow it down. 3 wraps was good for the slope below the 11k camp, 1 wrap down ski hill, no wraps on the flatter sections. i hate that sensation as you notice that your sled has caught up with you and that a train wreck is inevitable. you usually get several seconds to contemplate the upcoming disaster before it actually happens, but you can't do anything to prevent it.

 

i agree, sleds are a necessary evil, but evil nonetheless

 

ok, back to annabelle bond please...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great pic of Anabelle dropping the kids off at the ice rink!

 

As for sleds, do not buy a $500 sled. I built mine for $50 and it works awesome. I took it to Denali and even attached a Back Off Yosemite Sam mudflap attached to the back. It was a long orange kiddy sled. I took aluminum 1/2" conduit poles and used a bar bender to bend them at the end. I drilled a hole on each side of the front of the sled for the aluminum stays to slide into. Then I attached the two ends of the 1/2" poles by sliding them into a 9" piece of 3/4" aluminum. I drilled two holes for each side and bolted it on. Then for the straps up and down the sled, I just drilled holes in the side and attached buckles on 1" webbing. The poles going up to my harness were fixed w/ biners and wrapped with wire and duct tape to hold them to the poles. I did not have a single problem skiing down with it, even when fully loaded after we summitted and headed down ski hill. It tracked well. I'll post pics soon.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
did the original posters have an photos to add?

here are a few:

DPS on the Kahiltna

3720dps-med.JPG

 

Hunter

3720hunter-med.JPG

 

Foraker

3720foraker-med.JPG

 

Denali from KIA

3720denalifromKIA-med.JPG

 

Me enjoying the views from 17k

3720views-med.JPG

 

 

Edited by wazzumountaineer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Mtnfreak,

 

I was at the 14K camp a few days after the accident and spoke to park rangers who were on their way up to put in fixed lines. Since I was engaged in my own unsuccessful attempt on the Upper West Rib, I didn't go up to Denali Pass to confirm the fixed lines. If I'm wrong and there are no fixed lines only picket at Denali Pass, my sincere apoligies to all I have misled. That's the last time I believe anything a park ranger says.

 

Mughjie

 

Mughjie - sounds like we both might be right. The park rangers will fix rope on the pickets for a rescue, but they do not leave the ropes up for public use.

The ranger patrol establish a fixed picket line on the autobahn for rescue purposes. The local guides assist the climbing rangers by resetting the pickets as needed - so you guys be careful when you pull pickets, some of them aren't supposed to be taken!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

DPS, 6 pages of spray on you and no response? c'mon,dude, ask the wife to loosen her grip on your balls long enough to type a response....

 

pussy whipped climbers

 

 

also, if you ever hit denali again, keep in mind the high point of denali pass is a place from hell where winds are funneled. don't judge conditions solely on that spot for the rest of the day. i remember having to yell at the top of my lungs into my climbing partner's ear there to communicate. Conditions got much better the further away from the pass we got. Nearly everyone i climb w/ who has summited denali via the butt has a similar story, too. better luck next time but also remember denali requires patience.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×