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savaiusini

Maude, Fernow, 7FJ

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well, I know it's not current conditions and you're probably already up to speed on both these routes, but I thought I'd take the time to advertise a freinds website.

http://www.wwu.edu/~berdind

toodles

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I called the ranger station today (june 5th) and was told that the road is open and free of snow all the way in to the phelps creek trailhead.

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quote:

Originally posted by glennm:

Has anyone skied the N. Face of Maude? Looks as if it could go early season.

I'm not sure, but think it has seen a descent. Early season is the time for sure. Me and a buddy have been eyeing that face for a ski descent for a couple years. For some reason we haven't gotten around to it yet. I've been on the route and it would ski about like NF Shuksan although Maude seems a bit steeper at the top.

 

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my guess is not this year. Assuming that things are a month+ ahead of schedule it is probably melting out as we speak. I heard that last year large parts of it melted down to rock. With this low snow year I'd bet those will be emerging pretty soon.

on another note, has anyone around here done the infamous descent (on feet) from the Maude-Jack col? what about ascent?

 

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quote:

Originally posted by dbb:

my guess is not this year. Assuming that things are a month+ ahead of schedule it is probably melting out as we speak. I heard that last year large parts of it melted down to rock. With this low snow year I'd bet those will be emerging pretty soon.

on another note, has anyone around here done the infamous descent (on feet) from the Maude-Jack col? what about ascent?

YES! I have done it. And it goes nothing like what's described in Nelson's 2nd book. We ran into friends of his on our climb and they said he has not even done the climb. How he's describing it in the book could get someone hurt. From the col, the best way is to descend straight down from the col and not to traverse. This was last year, and we found that the N Face climax avalanced from the top. Looked like oreo cookies ice cream. UGLY!

 

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Sauvaisini,

Do all authors climb every route they describe in their books? How could his route description get someone hurt, exactly?

If the book says "Walk off cliff," are you going to do it? Rather, the book says, "Follow obvious notch/ledge/tree," and we're all left going, "Huh?" The book helps out, but it's up to you (a little personal responsibility lesson here) to make your own decisions regarding your safety.

Granted, if the book says 50m rappel and it's 60m, there's good reason to complain. Which is why I want to here exactly how Nelson's description, "...could get someone hurt."

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Pencil Pusher,

Man, people take things a bit too literally here. My wording was merely a figure of speech. Don't you think it was "responsible" of me to call attention to the route issue? So, it is up to YOU decide what to do with your info, whether it be from a book or some honest guy on a messege board filled with 50% crap and 50% good info. Furthermore, I am not making any judgements about Nelson as an author. I am merely reporting what friends of Jim's said about the description. To be more clear, the higher traverse described in the book had some serious exposure when we were there and actually ended in a cliff still quite far from the face. I couldn't agree with you more; it is the climber's responsibilty to interpret the info that they get on their own. No one should be led by the hand.

 

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I think Peter and I blew it on our approach recommendation for the North Face of Maude climb. I think at the next printing, we will change it to recommend the traverse around the south side of the mountain, with a mention of the Fernow/Maude Col descent as a more technical option. Anyone with details of the Fernow/Maude Col descent, I would be very interested to hear from. I have not done the climb, and appologize for the mistake. Jim Nelson

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Correction on that. I meant to say Maude/Seven Fingered Jack. not Maude/Fernow. Jim

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quote:

Originally posted by pms:

Correction on that. I meant to say Maude/Seven Fingered Jack. not Maude/Fernow. Jim

Jim,

My experience one the descent from the col may be different from others', but I thought the "better" line was to descend pretty much straight down from the col. We were there last year in late May and even then there was some cliff negotiation. Our original intent was to traverse as depicted in your book, but we found this to be problematic. Please don't take my prior remark personally: "...could get someone hurt." It was only a figure of speech given the sense of urgency we felt given the days avy conditions. The ice lakes approach from Leroy could be a better option.

-Sam

 

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What is "typically" the best time to climb Maude? I know it's a subjective question. Also what is the best approach to get to the north face based on past experience? Thanks!

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Jim and all,

I have done the south side approach around Marmot Pyramid onto the South Entiat Glacier several times. My partner and I have found it to be very straight forward with little objective hazards.It allows you to get a very good look at the lower section of the Entiat Icefall. It does mean more (easy) glacier travel but, I feel it to be a lot "easier" than coming down the east side of the Maude/Seven Finger Col.

Last time we were there our objective was the icefall. When we got to the base of the icefall we found two "very slow" moving groups. Not wanting to get mixed up in a "three way" we scoped out the lower route and then moved on to the north face, came back early the next morning and did the icefall.

If you are going for the icefall the southern traverse around Marmot Pyramid is the way to go.

Wes

[This message has been edited by westerntk@aol.com (edited 06-13-2001).]

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I am one of what I believe were several differnt climbers guys who suggested the approach over the col when Jim and Peter were preparing the book and, while the book might have pointed out that this approach is nowhere near as friendly as the ice lakes approach, I believe it remains a valid alternative because it is so much shorter than climbing nearly to the summit before doing the climb, and hiking almost all the way around the thing. I don't know about the direct descent from the col, but the traverse did indeed involve travelling accros ledges and slabs littered with loose rock and there was a short bit of down-climbing on garbage, but I would go that way again if I ever went back to repeat the climb. Maybe I have a higher tolerance for junk than some. Jim, I think you were too hard on yourself.

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Hey, that's the first detailed beta I've gotten for the area this season. Sounds like you had primo conditions, Tim. When I was there, our big concern was avy conditions, so we thought it was better under the circumstances, to head down to the moraine rather than traverse. At any rate, Ice Lakes or the prescription in Jim's book are probably better choices than what our group did, oh well.

Jim: I certainly wouldn't change the book's description by much at all. There's more than one way to skin a cat. From listening to the folks here, there can be justification for choosing any approach.

-Sam

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Mt. Maude, N Face, is in excellent condition as of Saturday, 6/16. All neve, had to go out of our way to find any ice. Nelson's suggested approach is pretty easy and straight forward now--still a fair amount of snow to ease the traverse. I wouldn't descend all the way to the moraine then back up the N face, too much work. Same with the Icy Lake approach.

If you're comfortable on snow slopes of that angle you don't need a rope, pro, or a second tool. If you like a safety margin, you may want some of that stuff.

As for the descent: hit the saddle, the flatish spot, go left (south) down the obvious couloir but at the point that the rock wall on skier's right stops, cross over the shoulder and descend that system of gullies (southwestward). You can see this from the bivy spot. While our continuing descent down the initial gully system was more interesting and challenging than the ascent, it did take some extra time and involved some extra risk.

Tim Matsui

PS: N Face looks totally skiable. You could do it today, but a little earlier might have been better.

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Jon, Tim or cascadeclimbers,

Any hope of getting this thread transfered to the "Select Climbs Corrections" section of the board so as not to loose this beta?

Greg

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