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[TR] Gunks, NY- Twilight Zone 4/20/2005


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Climb: Gunks, NY-Twilight Zone

 

Date of Climb: 4/20/2005

 

Trip Report:

It may be disputed whether the east coast has mountains, but adventures can be had nonetheless. Where else can you skip a day of uni to climb 20' and 35' roofs? My friend Jeff and I took a weekday trip to the gunks with two goals: aid Twilight Zone (C2/free at 13b) and aid Kansas City (C1/free at 12b). After practicing some aid indoor, it was time for some roofs. Needless to say, it was amazing. Yeah, yeah, its just aid climbing, its not the same as freeing a route. True, but after 2 hours for me to aid Twilight Zone and 2 hours for Jeff to clean it, we had completed the most mentally and physically exhausting pitch in our lives. Just think, you have a 10 pitch 5.10 crack with a A3 roof in the middle (ahem-liberty crack)--you wouldn't want that to stop you.

 

For photos and videos, check out: http://isc.astro.cornell.edu/~don/pictures/joe_gunks

 

For a full story visit:

http://jeff.robreid.com/albums/20050420/index.html

 

7967Joe_by_Cyril_4-med.jpg

 

Gear Notes:

1 set of aiders, daisy, easy daisy, full trad rack, 2 ascenders (for follower)

 

Should have used another set of aiders for the leader and a set for the follower to reverse aid a long traverse/roof like this, another easy daisy would have been nice

 

Approach Notes:

Walk 15 minutes up carriage road from car

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