RichardKorry Posted June 3, 2005 Share Posted June 3, 2005 After reading a TR of an unexpected bivy on W Ridge of Stuart, I began to wonder what people thought was the route most likely in resulting in an unexpected bivy. The W Ridge on Stuart seems a candidate as it's long, offers many route finding challenges, is often done early in one's alpine career and the descent is very long. Other candidates? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted June 3, 2005 Share Posted June 3, 2005 NE Buttress of J-berg Torment-Forbidden traverse in a day Backbone Ridge w/fin direct Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ireneo_Funes Posted June 3, 2005 Share Posted June 3, 2005 How many folks do the West Ridge of Stuart planning on bivvying? I'm not a fan of the long push, so I think when I do it I'm going to figure a bivy into the equation. Most folks I know hate bivvying, but I prefer it over the marathon day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenp Posted June 3, 2005 Share Posted June 3, 2005 I am going to the west ridge in July and planning to bivy below LJ tower. It can be done in a day but why, when I have the time and I enjoy hanging out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ireneo_Funes Posted June 3, 2005 Share Posted June 3, 2005 Right, that's what I was thinking too. I guess some people just like camping & hanging out more than others; some folks want to go for the "we did it car-to-car in XX hours" thing. I'm also slow, so that's part of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted June 3, 2005 Share Posted June 3, 2005 It can be done in a day but why Because climbing with shit on your back sucks. Because hauling packs sucks (and trashes your pack). Because the longer you take on a route the better chance you have for the weather to deviate from the forecast. Maybe it doesn't bother you but personally given the choice I rather climb something sans pack on my back. If you want to hang out do it at the lake or somewhere where you can escape easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted June 3, 2005 Share Posted June 3, 2005 There were a number of Mt Fury summit register entries for N. Buttress climbers with the phrase "we had a beautiful sunrise".... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenp Posted June 3, 2005 Share Posted June 3, 2005 Speed is an essential part of climbing, some routes you simply can't lag on, I learned that lesson on Dragontail years ago. but on others that luxury can be a real and exciting part of the whole climb. A planned bivy can be cool, if everything goes according to plan! being old and slow probably has about 98% of my decision making as to pre-plan a bivy or to go for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChocChick Posted June 3, 2005 Share Posted June 3, 2005 I am one of MANY poor souls who had an unexpected bivy on the W. Ridge of Mt. Stuart. A sudden storm blew in - it was nasty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted June 3, 2005 Share Posted June 3, 2005 Wished I would have bivied on this in what turned out to be an 18 hr round trip from came in hail/snow/rain/lighting storm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin_B Posted June 3, 2005 Share Posted June 3, 2005 When I did WR stuart, we planned on bivying on route and did, just above the west ridge notch. It is one of my most memorable climbing/camping experiences. The only thing we added to our packs that we wouldn't have had on a day climb is a little more food a 1.5 lbs sleeping bag. We had a perfect forecast so we took no bivy sacks, we sleep on our packs so we had no pads, there was no snow to melt so we took no stove. It was aswesome. Next time I might try to bivy on the summit seeing as how we were only ~400 feet from the summit anyhow. I just don't see the car-to-car push as a big weight savings in that situation. We did pass a guy coming down that route that was soloing it in a day. He had a water bottle clipped to his harness and a rope on his back (he had just rappeled down from LJT). I need more gear than that whether its a car-to-car or overnight trip!! But back to the original post, although I haven't done it, I think the route that most people spend more than the expected amount of time on is a pretty obvious one, lib ridge. I guess you could make the arguement that those unplanned, subsequent nights are not unexpected bivies though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted June 3, 2005 Share Posted June 3, 2005 The Lillarete on Mt. Athelstan seems to have overmatched a number of parties. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted June 3, 2005 Share Posted June 3, 2005 Index Traverse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade Posted June 3, 2005 Share Posted June 3, 2005 It can be done in a day but why STYLE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forrest_m Posted June 3, 2005 Share Posted June 3, 2005 there is a lovely bivy site on the summit of mt goode. some people might choose to use it as part of a traverse or something, but i'll bet it sees a fair amount of unexpected occupancy... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted June 3, 2005 Share Posted June 3, 2005 How many people try to do NEB of Slesse in a day? Most people count on bivying? I'd wager NR Stewie sees a lot of unplanned bivies since its a "classic" (i.e. gumby magnet). [chestbeat] WR Stewie is quite a reasonable day trip [/chestbeat] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted June 3, 2005 Share Posted June 3, 2005 there are a hell of a lot of stone walls constructed in unusual places on the nr of stuart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrible_ted Posted June 3, 2005 Share Posted June 3, 2005 There were a number of Mt Fury summit register entries for N. Buttress climbers with the phrase "we had a beautiful sunrise".... ...and most of the rest talked about the beautiful sunset. We had both. -t Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 5, 2005 Share Posted June 5, 2005 The Lillarete on Mt. Athelstan seems to have overmatched a number of parties. the Angels Crest has had a number of bivs near the top too, and escapes by the gully. there's even a bunch of hurriedly constructed bivi p[latforms on top of yak crack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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