Sol Posted June 2, 2005 Share Posted June 2, 2005 I couldn't help but notice the amazing arete climb Black Power on my way back from Careno Crag the other day. holy shit, that things straight outta hard grit. sick. I noticed some shinyness in the horizontals up high, what's the word on fixed pro up on it? Has this climb seen a repeat since greg collum and partner first climbed it? I'd love to get worked on it, does anyone know the logistics of top-roping it? thanks for any info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mec Posted June 2, 2005 Share Posted June 2, 2005 Is this the start of another racist thread? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted June 3, 2005 Author Share Posted June 3, 2005 Is this the start of another racist thread? blah, blah, blah. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ireneo_Funes Posted June 3, 2005 Share Posted June 3, 2005 mec beat me to it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted June 3, 2005 Author Share Posted June 3, 2005 mec beat me to it! blah ba blah ba blah. Â c'mon no hard people coming out of the wood work on this one. if you've ever seen this line, it is ssiiiccckkkk! it must be super-hard (sandbag) coming from greg collum and crew. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mec Posted June 3, 2005 Share Posted June 3, 2005 That route does look super hard. wish I had the skill to go for it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted June 3, 2005 Author Share Posted June 3, 2005 my bad, greg child did the FA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_m Posted June 3, 2005 Share Posted June 3, 2005  c'mon no hard people coming out of the wood work on this one. if you've ever seen this line, it is ssiiiccckkkk! it must be super-hard (sandbag) coming from greg collum and crew.  Looked at it - looks hard as hell Glad I'm not the only one who winces when they see Greg Collum's name.  Not that FAist Greg Child wasn't a hard man too  Is it wet right now? I seem to recall that climbing being in a drip zone -  Side note - any new info on the routes on the left side of the Drip Wall? I assume they're wet now too.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted June 3, 2005 Author Share Posted June 3, 2005 it seems pretty dry right now, all the climbs around it look pretty wet though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted June 3, 2005 Share Posted June 3, 2005 I hear it's a lot easier than it looks. Like 11- with great gear. You should jump on it for the on sight Frosty! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted June 3, 2005 Author Share Posted June 3, 2005 I hear it's a lot easier than it looks. Like 11- with great gear. You should jump on it for the on sight Frosty! ha ha ha. yeah right. i just want to tr it and slap the arete at least once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 Bumb  Sol you ever get on this?  And yes I wince when I see Collums name, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted December 9, 2008 Author Share Posted December 9, 2008 Nope i never did. Â It did get sent by semi-local climber this fall after others had deemed it impossible. Â Not to bad to tr i've heard, rap station set up to get to anchors which are pretty crappy, but can be backed up. Still inspired for the spring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suckbm Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 so does this route climb the blank slab at the top or do you rap off the bolt with the old sling. doesnt seem to bad to redpoint if you dont climb the slab Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted December 10, 2008 Author Share Posted December 10, 2008 you climb the slab. Â apparently the bottom half is the scary bit... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxhasson Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 I tr'd it a few years ago with Cole, the bottom is not so bad but the slab is semi impossible. Actually, not really impossible just super hard. Cole found a series of moves that seemed to work but I don't think he linked it up, toe hooking was involved. On a slab... Â Drew redpointed the route by veering left at the top to another feature that's much easier. Jens played around on it one day and also found a sequence through the slab, reconfirming it's difficulty. Â Another case of Leavenworth micro-crystals radically changing a slabby route? I think so. It's cool that it still goes though, somebody strap on some Kaukulators next summer and get after it! Â I found the anchor bolts under a thick carpet of moss and pretty much unusable. You can rig an anchor but some shiny bolts would be better. Â Anybody want to sponsor me a drill in the name of Leavenworth area bolt replacement? Probably not but it's worth a try. Â Other routes that are either super sandbagged or have changed in the decades since the first ascent: Boo Arete, Careno Crag Doin' the Dishes, Classic Crack Dukes of Ballet, Warrior Wall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZONK Posted December 13, 2008 Share Posted December 13, 2008 Dukes of Ballet, has been rebolted this year Doin the Dishes, peices have broken off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyf Posted December 13, 2008 Share Posted December 13, 2008 BOO Arete should be rebolted. (Note I said "rebolted," not "retrobolted.") I was way more spooked by the quarter-inchers on it than the RP placements, and that was more than ten years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxhasson Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 The bottom of Boo looked scary from below but isn't so bad, especially if you know the pro and the moves. The crux is only scary because of the old bolts. I agree they need replacement but not rearrangement. Â I heard Dukes was rebolted, which is awesome. But did it see a redpoint? I tried it last year and was unable to link the moves. Not impossible but possibly harder, maybe I just need more slab practice. Â The rock is losing the snow around here but climbing is out. Hopefully it gets colder at least and the ice comes back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 We did not manage to redpoint Dukes either, but the route got a good scrubbing and new bristlers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewbanandrew Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 Does anyone know what the local conditions in Leavenworth are like? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crillz Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 Conditions for what? Rock climbing? COLD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted February 3, 2009 Author Share Posted February 3, 2009 Snowy and Icy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 Hmmm, it was pretty good today. The cracks are a little cold on the fingers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZONK Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 Nice out there today, also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.