Jump to content

Bulletheads, this afternoon


luwayo

Recommended Posts

Sunshine Chimney Centre caught my eye for "disappearing into the bowels of the mountain."

 

i'm far from strong leading 5.8 cracks as i often get that freaked out feeling on them. any suggestions on Sunshine?

 

will give Fungus a try as well, but my biggest pro is only the yellow slung tri-cam (and the 2nd pitch is a bit slabby - not all that appetizing on a hot day like today).

leaving at 3 today to test my metal.

Edited by luwayo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 13
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

SCC - take # 4 Camalot. There is a squeeze chimney near the bottom which is kind of runout but easy

Climb it in 1 pitch, not 3.

When you get to the slung chockstone, think stemming for left foot.

 

SC - South is a 5.6 option you might find better if 5.8 is hard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I though SCC was scary. I backed off at the slung chockstone last year. The rock was yucky even before that spot. tongue.gif ... I enjoyed the left variation (Backpack?) better, I think you would too if crawling into the rock is attractive - don't get your helmet stuck.

 

There's a rap station at the top of FtBG.p1 . I think there's a fair amount of fist sized crack on it. I even recall crawling right in and slithering on my belly like a reptile. Didn't do p2.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

#4 Camalot - acknowledged. i was worried it needed the purple #5.

 

i managed to peel my select guide open to the page - Fern, you climbed SCS - it's a bomb! i'm tempted to take a red pen to strike that bomb from my book.

 

at the end of the belly slither on FtBG is where i was talking big pro.

 

i was at leavenworth on the weekend leading Mid-way among other things, so i'm in a good frame of mind.

 

thanks guys. i'll give it a shot.

Edited by luwayo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

quick follow up: for any body else pushing the 5.8 envelope, this 2p. climb takes good pro all the way on pitch 1. i found the crux move (using Dru's stem suggestion) over the bulge committing.

 

sling everthing on p.1 (some double lengths) - major rope drag, as in one oblique traverse to a corner; & then a traverse in op. direction.

 

shady smile.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Based on this, I went up SCC this past weekend on my way to Cream of White Mice.

 

I thought that the route was interesting in a mellow 'adventure climb' sort of way, and definitely more amusing than the approach hike to COWM.

 

But, revisiting your comments, I suspect I may have done the Sunshine Chimney North. I went up a wide gulley, up a left-leaning ramp with a nice handcrack, then zigzaged through various tunnels. I wound up on the approach path to COWM after a single rope-length. There was no belly crawl.

 

Was I on SCC or SCN?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

this 5.8 baby thanks you for the report, and i look forward to the day when i can say 5.8 leads are mellow too.

 

i see your confusion. in my perfunctory posts it's a challenge to make myself coherent between rush jobs at work crazy.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The stuff I climbed was not as hard as 5.8, was not runout, and did not require a #4 camalot.

 

Also, my confusion stems from not being able to read a guidebook, not the quality of your posts.

 

I would recommend the route I was on to a 5.8 leader- its fun and far from scary (except for the Rodents of Unusual Size).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...