peas Posted May 17, 2005 Share Posted May 17, 2005 Anyone have any beta on this route? First hand, second hand, lies, slander. Any info is useful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjizzy Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 After a failure on the Pan, did it in '94 with Doug Klewin. I remember pitch 2 being long, and rather convoluted, with tension and lots of traverses. Pitch 3 was non-memorable. The long aid pitch #4 was really cool, lots of good nailing. Doug fell on the last pitch, #5. After that I don't remember the little sixth pitch as shown in McLane's book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwalling Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 Where is Doug now? I'd be interested in asking him a few questions about some routes at Index. also my truck is fucked! 3k but I only pay 500 cause of insurance. Â Peas, what is up? I haven't talked to you in a long time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 You're going to die! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peas Posted May 18, 2005 Author Share Posted May 18, 2005 After a failure on the Pan, did it in '94 with Doug Klewin. I remember pitch 2 being long, and rather convoluted, with tension and lots of traverses. Pitch 3 was non-memorable. The long aid pitch #4 was really cool, lots of good nailing. Doug fell on the last pitch, #5. After that I don't remember the little sixth pitch as shown in McLane's book. Â Any comments on useful gear to bring? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjizzy Posted May 19, 2005 Share Posted May 19, 2005 We did some nailing. Some KB's, quite a few LA's, some babes. A few heads, no(?) rurps. There was some tied off pins. Nuts to 4". I would say A3. Harder than Uncle Bens, cleaner and easier than Wrist Twister, lots easier than Humpty Dumpty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 19, 2005 Share Posted May 19, 2005 my copy of the campbell guide says 15 - kb, la 4 - 1/2", 5/8" 3 - 3/4", 1" 1 - 1.25", 1.5" Â many wired nuts and hooks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 I'm of the impression that Doug Klewin was a bad-ass aid climbing mother-f%#ker. If he fell off the fifth pitch does that mean it's friggin terrifying, and what happened to the guy anyway. Still out there crankin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 I know I am resurrecting an ancient thread here, but I would like to just say that part of this route is now a free climbing project, and all the moves have gone and I would like to ask people not to use hammers and pins if aiding this climb. Â The project goes from the start of Lower Pan Tease final pitch and climbs the face out right to the belay below the huge corner (pitch 4 of Edge of Pan) The Huge corner is a VERY good free climbing pitch and with modern gear is easily aidable without pins. Above this the climb joins Upper Pan Tease.... Â Repeated nailing in this crack would leave scars that would make the climb much easier as there would be fingerlocks rather than palming/stemming the whole way... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 As if anyone has aided that thing in the last 30 years...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstach Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 Nice subtle chest beat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankazoid Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 bstach, Â This is standard procedure when a route goes free... I don't think anyone is chest beating. just climbing hard, and sharing new info on the route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstach Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 It was meant tongue-in-cheek. I'm just jealous. You go, Marc! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketparrotlet Posted June 1, 2011 Share Posted June 1, 2011 Way to go Marc! Glad to hear that route worked out, keep us updated if you redpoint! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmace Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 http://sonnietrotter.com/roadlife/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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