acmcmurray Posted May 13, 2005 Share Posted May 13, 2005 My question is what type of rope should I get for a 3 person team going up the Kautz Glacier on Rainer this August? I already have a 60m, 10.5mm DRY rope but feel that is way to big and too heavy. I have been looking at "Mammut Revelation 9.2mm x 60m Dry Rope" and the like. Would this be good for Rainer and other mountains in my future. What would be some of your suggestions. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted May 13, 2005 Share Posted May 13, 2005 The 10.5 will be just fine. If you want to buy more gear, then go ahead and buy a new rope. The Beal Joker is a bit lighter than the the Revelation. Kautz in August? You might want to have a backup plan. Disclaimer: I haven't taken any NOLS courses, nor have I at any time prostrated myself to the gods of retail sales. Based on this, I am probably underqualified to comment on gear selection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted May 13, 2005 Share Posted May 13, 2005 many people use their fat ropes. not really worth buying a new rope if you're hardly going to use it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knelson Posted May 14, 2005 Share Posted May 14, 2005 A third vote for "just use your 10.5 rope." Just expect the snide comments from the "climber elite" as you drag it out of your trunk. ("Wow... think that guy brought his skinny rope?!! Gfaw gfaw gfaw") IMO, you won't notice the extra weight on the climb you're doing. Now if you had some heinous, long, non-roped approach, I'd say spring for the lighter rope. -kurt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 14, 2005 Share Posted May 14, 2005 just buy 30m of 7mm static cord and use that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farva Posted May 14, 2005 Share Posted May 14, 2005 If you're looking for a glacier rope, you don't even need a "single" rope. For 3 people, a 50m/60m 8/8.5 works great. If you use a skinny rope you might have to play with your prusiks to make them stick. Your current rope will work also, but a 10.5 will get super heavy when it gets wet. Based on this, I am probably underqualified to comment on gear selection. You can say that again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Crash Posted May 17, 2005 Share Posted May 17, 2005 On glaciers I use a 37 m 8.4 mm double (Sterling, whatever was cheap on a 30% off sale in PDX last year); perfect length for up to 4 people. Beal makes a "Randonnee" rope which is cheap and good for glaciers but not for climbing. drC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted May 17, 2005 Share Posted May 17, 2005 Buy my rope! 8.8mmx50m Sterling Marathon Dry Rope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonSmith Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 I am in a similar predicament, trying to decide between a Beal Joker and a Bluewater Exellence. I like the concept of doubles and am heavily leaning in that direction. The rope will mostly be used as a double although I like the idea that you can belay 2 seconds with the joker and a reverso. Hearing the reviews I am wondering if the Bluewater Exellence is much more durable than the Joker. I am still a relative newbie to climbing starting 2 years ago at college. As I have just graduated I need my own rope(s). Right now I am just starting to get into leading easy climbs and also plan to start trying short Ice routes this upcomming winter with an expirenced friend. Basically what is the durability like on both these ropes, or is their a better choice I missed. The rope needs to have passed the sharp edge test in a double configuration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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