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Dru

Missing Discussion of Outer Space Slowpokery

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no problem...you supplying the 300lb slob courtesty of yourself?? I'll bring a step stool so you can get to the first bolt...

 

 

there's plenty of other shit to do...

 

if you bring 140 lbs. to attach to me so i'll weigh 300!

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I'm interested to see what Harry Pi has to say about all this. We need some ancient oriental wisdom here.

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I'd say that it's kind of a wimpy pasive agresive thing to do to when you don't ask to pass a slow party and don't say a thing to their face but come back to cc.com and rag on them.

 

I can understand the desire for someone new to climbing to try a, "classic," climb. From the sounds of it you were in over your heads, but you did manage to get up the climb and back to the car safely. Just keep in mind that by going slow you are actually increasing the risk of being caught by bad weather both for your party and the parties behind you. Maybe that's not a huge worry around here since we don't get too many thunderstorms, but in other areas you're asking for a lightning bolt up your butt.

 

OS is a really popular climb. If I went up to Snow Creek Wall and saw 4 parties ahead of me on OS I'd instantly go climb Mary Jane or Orbit rather than wait. They're good climbs that nobody ever does.

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Quite a few people do climb Orbit, I have been on that with a couple other parties. I agree it is nothing like OS, but there can still be crowds. Now, Mary Jane, I have rarely seen more than a single party on it at any one time...

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My buddy was in the first climbing party of that day, ahead of the "slow party". It was his first time on OS. He said it was an awesome day and an awesome route and had zero complaints about the day. he said he talked to the folks in the "slow party" at one point (lower down?) and they seemed like nice folks. he didn't see/speak to them again once he was up higher. He said as they were descending he was surprised to see so many groups still on the route. I guess there is a lesson here, but I'm not going to say it because its too obvious and everyone complaining knows what they should have done. There is a reason my buddy started early.... rolleyes.gif

 

thumbs_up.gif to the "slow party". good on ya for getting out there. ignore the idiots on this board. they are so yellowsleep.gif anyways.

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just to make sure this thing won't die, I'm not sure who anybody was, but linebackers know how to sneek by blockers,and get to the play before it happens, sometimes you just gotta blitz, and huddle on the other side. Set a manky belay and ask if anyone wants to share anchors? oh sorry diden't mean to snake the lead? is that cheating?

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Everybody is at fault and nobodies at fault.

 

If you expect to climb OS on the weekend, without having to wait, and don't do the entire trail in the dark, you are dreaming.

 

I've seen 7 people on Library ledge, who cares as long as you get back alive. It's a nice chance to stop and chat and catch some rays.

 

I've been passed and have passed other parties, it's sometimes delicate but doing either one cleanly is part of being an experienced climber. If you're late to go to a fire, you should have passed.

 

If you're resting on gear you aren't ready for the grade, especially at 5.9, especially multipitch. If you want to continue in that style do OS on a weekday.

 

I still don't think either of the parties made any serious mistakes, after all no one was hurt or killed.

 

was it Mr. Salathe? "vi can't ve all chust klimb?"

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Everybody is at fault and nobodies at fault.

 

If you expect to climb OS on the weekend, without having to wait, and don't do the entire trail in the dark, you are dreaming.

 

I've seen 7 people on Library ledge, who cares as long as you get back alive. It's a nice chance to stop and chat and catch some rays.

 

I've been passed and have passed other parties, it's sometimes delicate but doing either one cleanly is part of being an experienced climber. If you're late to go to a fire, you should have passed.

 

If you're resting on gear you aren't ready for the grade, especially at 5.9, especially multipitch. If you want to continue in that style do OS on a weekday.

 

I still don't think either of the parties made any serious mistakes, after all no one was hurt or killed.

 

was it Mr. Salathe? "vi can't ve all chust klimb?"

 

ahhhh....the voice of reason. gracias.

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Sounds like everyone behind the slow party who is bitching is at fault. Who cares if they were over their heads? Are you pompous asses telling me you've never been over your head on any climb? And if so, then how the hell do you ever improve? I always try to push myself on harder climbs and try to climb above my abilities and with people who are better/stronger than I am. Screw anyone else who is behind me and refuses to pass, but then bitches about it later. Get up earlier, climb something else, and quit whining like little pussies and look up for a moment and actually enjoy where you are. If not, stay inside at the gym and pull plastic. Good work to the "slow" group and I think it is awesome you are pushing yourselves.

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wow, 4 pages of BS because people were slow. go do another climb or just shut the fuck up. ryland, you got it right.

ss

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I don't understand why this thread got nuked to spray. cry.gif True, there is some blather in it, there this is actually a legit climbing discussion/issue, and some people actually gave meaningful insight/opinions.

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This discussion would never have occurred in France.

 

If you are slow, the faster people will climb OVER you. No kidding. Happens in the Alps too with the guides.

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I saw such an incident at the Verdon Gorge, where a French climber started trying to pass a British team, and the British leader found her rope being held back by the French leader, or maybe it was just tangled with his. So she threw a carabiner at the guy. Climbers speaking four or five different languages then started yelling at her and at each other over it.

 

This was on a one or two pitch sport climb, though like nearly all the routes at the Gorge, it was 1000 feet off the deck (in the Verdon, you rap down from the top and climb back up).

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Well, the discussion might have occurred in France if some visiting 'mericans were on route and didn't think the Euro practices were kosher. yellaf.gif Regardless, people seem to have some interesting opinions, and it seems to be worth talking about. tongue.gif

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Have never climbed in France, but in Canada, if you are slow, we swarm you back at camp and then burn your tent down boxing_smiley.gif

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"Fast" parties should start OS late in the day and hike out in the dark. "Slow parties" will always show up early.

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