Alpinfox Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 (edited) I seem to recall a couple hotshots passing me and Dave on Infinite Bliss. But seriously, I don't think my post was pompous at all. It's a fact if you go slow on a popular route, you are going to piss people off and that isn't fun for anyone and should be avoided. I have never held up a faster party. One time on Diedre we had some dumbshit ask to pass me when there were parties at every belay station and I was right behind another party. I just laughed at the guy; his partner looked embarrased. edited Oh and to add to the pomposity, Who ever said OS was a testpiece? It easy for "alpine" 5.9. Edited May 12, 2005 by Alpinfox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 Such a pompous post! Have you never had people stack up behind you? Well, he climbs with me from time to time. Does that answer your question? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fheimerd Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 Being that I am the climber in question I would like to make a few remarks. To settle the dispute I did not pull on a single piece of gear the entire route. I did take several rests after placeing gear and clipping in. These rests were taken as to assess the next move so that I did not fall on my gear. In the entire climb I took three such rests. Though I agree the style could have been better I believe 98% of the moves were just a pretty as could be. In other news I am glad that this discussion has ensued. I as well as all those who participated have learned many different viewpoints on the subject which will inform our judgmments on the rock. I appreciate all the posts that seriously dealt with the issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 Climb popular routes and sometimes you’ll get caught in a line up. Complaining about it is like saying: “I love being a doctor, I just hate working with people.” Zactly. Shit you can't get on OS on a spring weekend and expect not to get caught behind slow people. Funny shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squid Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 Such a pompous post! Have you never had people stack up behind you? Step back! You're talking to the Fox! You are mediocrity personified - quit acting like you are some world class athlete. Jumpin' jeebus you people make me sick and even with your 14-color spandex unisuit, you can't keep up with me in my levis. Pathetic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 (edited) And Selkirk, orbit and champagne are certainly not "dirty pieces of shit". Apparently you don't know shit. Your only just now figuring that out And I haven't been up Champagne, or Orbit yet, though Orbit is on the list. And iI'll be going on a weekend, , starting early with another relatively new leader Edited May 12, 2005 by selkirk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 Being that I am the climber in question I would like to make a few remarks. To settle the dispute I did not pull on a single piece of gear the entire route. I did take several rests after placeing gear and clipping in. These rests were taken as to assess the next move so that I did not fall on my gear. In the entire climb I took three such rests. Though I agree the style could have been better I believe 98% of the moves were just a pretty as could be. In other news I am glad that this discussion has ensued. I as well as all those who participated have learned many different viewpoints on the subject which will inform our judgmments on the rock. I appreciate all the posts that seriously dealt with the issues. I had to take rests after reading each of these sentences. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 you are aid-reading the thread then. what a wuss! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 Yeah, and how come only 98% of the moves were pretty? I personally thought that 78.345% of the moves on OS are pretty, with 6.455% being somewhat good-looking, 5.334 of the moves were more-or-less handsome, 4.233 of the moves were at least charming, and the remaining 3.232% were downright foxy!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 you are aid-reading the thread then. what a wuss! I was caught behind you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 Yeah, and how come only 98% of the moves were pretty? I personally thought that 78.345% of the moves on OS are pretty, with 6.455% being somewhat good-looking, 5.334 of the moves were more-or-less handsome, 4.233 of the moves were at least charming, and the remaining 3.232% were downright foxy!! but then again, you think anything that sports a, ahem, "wool sweater" garners a 10! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 you are aid-reading the thread then. what a wuss! I was caught behind you. well quit reading over his shoulder, duh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 I was one of the people in the party originally complained about. I did post more to ask what to do in such a situation, not to complain about the other party. They seemed like nice enough guys and I know that waiting is never fun. To clear up some misconceptions... Was not our first ever multipitch climb. The only part that I feel we were excesivley slow on was in the 5.9 traverse, other than that we moved fairly quickly. We did split up one pitch into two on the suggestion of the climbers following us to limit rope drag and facilitate communication. There was also a party in front of us that we had to wait on for one of the last belay ledges. No-one ever asked us to pass if they would have we would definately let them pass. My thoughts on the subject are that we had no control over who started climbing behind us. Two groups were in front of us and when we started climbing there was one other behind us. I know I got up damn early to get an early start on the route because I knew it might be crowded. I wonder is their a limit to how many people should get on a route. Last I heard climbing is supposed to be about challenging yourself. That is what we did and feel we had every right to be on the route. The crags are to be shared by all climbers that come prepared and are safe. We were both prepared and safe. IE. in terms of the night walk out...some advice..I always bring a light just in case. My questions...is there a limit to how many people should get on a route? Who has the right of way? Is climbing about challenging yourself or about finding esay routes to breeze up? Hey man, why don't you just tell these folks raggin' you to just step the fuck off?? You did absolutely nothing wrong and if they didn't ask to pass and then bitch about you, well fuck 'em!! Props to you for going out there and pushing yourself... ...and Fox and Chuck...you two sound like idiots...sheesh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 Don't quite understand your point here RumR. Doesn't seem like many people or any are really ragging on this guy in this thread. In fact, I'm quite surprised no cc.com armchair hardman has chimed in to rant about slow gumbies getting in their way on the Tooth! Well maybe Fox did a bit, but I think that was a bit tongue in cheek? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 RumR are you channeling BOB!?!?!?!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 "armchair hardman"... aren't we all that, unless your last name is HUBER??? WTF... your statement about "style" had some direct "implications" to this thread (as in it was "poor style" to get in over your head)...personally i think the fact that they wanted to go out and prove themselves on a route that is well known as a multistar route is style enough...if they were ready, fine, if they pulled on a piece or three, that's fine too... and Philatio, you are a tool...personally, i think its weakass as all get out to sit there and have a face to face conversation with them (and i'm sure you tried to get your point across, in a "nice" manner) and then come to this godawful shit hole of a site and post your thoughts on them publicly...say it straight out and leave it at that... if Alpinfox was saying it tongue in cheek, that's fine...but it sure didn't read that way... Again, PROPS to the team that tried at slightly above their limit and had a relatively successful go at it...i'm sure you'll improve the next go around... the rest of you? Get the fuck out of bed earlier and get in line faster...wankers.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 RumR are you channeling BOB!?!?!?!? no...but i don't see raggin' on beginners that are enthusiastic/motivated and eager to test themselves as anything but a bunch of surrogate chest beating... Believe me, i can't come close to bob-level spray, nor do i want to... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paco Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 I skipped ahead a few pages; maybe I'll read all this crap later, but... Anyone wanna take an aid climbing newbie for a three-day weekend trip up Outerspace. We could bring lots of haul bags, a ghetto blaster, portaledges, a hammer and pitons, and camp out for a while. It might make sense to fix a pitch or two also. Does Friday, Saturday, Sunday sound good? punks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 I believe the Alpinistic Fox from Olympia was just noting that there are not rules in climbing, but rather etiquette. And wouldn't it be nice if we all followed etiquette. But then, not all of us know which fork to use when. Perhaps some people have learned in this thread? I know I have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 I skipped ahead a few pages; maybe I'll read all this crap later, but... Anyone wanna take an aid climbing newbie for a three-day weekend trip up Outerspace. We could bring lots of haul bags, a ghetto blaster, portaledges, a hammer and pitons, and camp out for a while. It might make sense to fix a pitch or two also. Does Friday, Saturday, Sunday sound good? punks ...and here comes the peanut gallery... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 i don't see raggin' on beginners that are enthusiastic/motivated and eager to test themselves as anything but a bunch of surrogate chest beating... I agree with you here! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 12, 2005 Author Share Posted May 12, 2005 how about getting some 300lb slob to practice aiding bolt to bolt on chain reaction just before rumr sets off for the redpoint one fine autumn weekend? any takers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mec Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 I would, but I am a little shy of 300 lbs... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 no problem...you supplying the 300lb slob courtesty of yourself?? I'll bring a step stool so you can get to the first bolt... there's plenty of other shit to do... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 This certainly is a changed cc.com when people are one-upping each other as to how kind they can be to the newbie! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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