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Heavy_B

Maude - Seven Fingered Jack Beta?

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Has anyone been up there recently? I'm just trying to get some beta on the approach conditions via Phelps/Leroy Ck.

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a buddy of mine was just up there recently, he'll proabaly chime in soon. lots of fresh unstable snow thwarted any thoughts of maude for them. they climbed 7 finger via postholing and avy rubble. from his photos maude appears quite unstable, unconsolidated, and fluted.

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Agreed, a good deal of new snow about 5 days ago on the top few thousand feet.

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blake, at about what elevation did continous snow start ? did you go in thru phelps creek ? if so, how far was the road driveable ? in general, does the country up there still look good for skiing ? thanks a lot!

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Was up there a couple of weeks ago, and was way too much soft snow.

 

1. Road was still gated about 5 miles before Phelps creek trailhead. We hiked it anyway for some reason. tongue.gif

 

2. Snow started about 1/2 way to Leroy creek cutoff on Phelps creek trail. Super steep part on Leroy snow free.

Much snow after reaching Leroy basin.

 

3. Slide activity rampant on all aspects, at all elevations above Leroy basin. Regular descent from Maude to Leroy basin a timebomb waiting for someone to set it off. shocked.gif

 

4. Seven Fingered Jack easily climbed via soft snow and a 300 yd. neve gully to final easy snow field. Better views than Maude a couple of years ago when WA was burning down.

 

Any more questions, let me know.

 

Jimbo bigdrink.gif

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Slide activity rampant on all aspects, at all elevations above Leroy basin. Regular descent from Maude to Leroy basin a timebomb waiting for someone to set it off.

 

I did the Phelps to Carne High Route last summer, and there was a lot of instability up there below SFJ. A lot of dirt was moved around in that general area by the 10/03 slide/flood thing that took out so many areas. There was a massive trough that went from below the solid rock of 7FJ to, well, it looked to us like it went all the way to the valley floor. It was maybe 50' wide and 25' deep. Big.

 

If anone goes into that area, I'd be interested to hear what, if anything, has happened since last year. Most, if not all of what we saw was between Phelps Creek and where you pop over to go to Ice Lakes.

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Everything looks great up there. No snow up to nice bivy spots in the basin, patchy snow from there. I climbed the west face couloir of maude and saw others doing fernow, 7fj and the standard route on maude. The North Face of Maude looked primo also. Go get it!

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jshamster - that's impressive. I am not worthy. We drove up there to find the road gated and said "screw it" and went somewhere else. It's closer to 7 miles to the TH from the gate. Nice work. That's a big day.

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I will call the ranger tomorrow, but does anyone know whether the road is still gated as of this weekend?

 

Thanks,

 

John Sharp

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Thanks very much MaryLou. Sounds like you can drive to the TH, which is great.

 

Cheers,

 

John

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Hey E-Dog:

 

I'm runnin' out of easy slogs up here! Can't we just sit in your hot tub and talk about climbing if I come down there?

 

Are you married yet?

 

All is well here -- my wife can still out hike you too, or so she thinks.

 

=;-)

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