High altitude training

[cj001f]

Aspirin, if you're not allergic to it, is IMO a better alternative than Diamox for prophylactic use.

Huh? Aspirin kills the headache, Diamox improves acclimitization. Sure you aren't DrQuack?

[Couloir]

I think it gives tourists something to think about other than the mind-numbing plodding.

 

Really. I'm serious.

I've heard that exact thing too. I believe it.

[gomek]

Drink a bunch of water and suck it up.

[mneagle]

I've never been to the Pacific Northwest, but I've heard about the RMI guides advocating pressure breathing on Ranier. Can anyone tell me what it's supposed to do? COPD patients breath through pursed lips automatically, to keep their alveoli from collapsing, but I've never heard of a reason that it would help at altitude.

 

Pursed lip breathing improves breathlessness in patients with COPD not by holding aleoli open but rather by preventing early airway collapse and allowing for longer expiratory times and larger expiratory volumes, thus increasing efficiency of ventilation and carbon dioxide elimination. It works in COPD patients because of the loss of airway tethering, increased mucous production and other factors that comtribute to airway obstruction.

 

"Pressure breathing" as the RMI folks describe it, is meant to increase the pressure of the intrained air in hopes of forcing it into your blood (or some such nonesense). What they fail to appreciate is that force applied to the thoracic cavity (by contracting your chest wall muscles) does not just change the airway/alveolar pressure but is instead applied to all tissues. The transmural pressure of the alveoli is therefore not changed and oxygen will therefore not be "forced into your blood". If anything, you may have a drop in venous return which may decrease your cardiac output. Of course if they are dragging a bunch of smokers with COPD up the dog route then it may be of some benefit.

 

So does true pressure breathing exist? It sure does, just ask this guy:

 

 

Since World War II we have known that tightly fitting masks delivering highly pressured air and/or oxygen can increase blood oxygen levels at altitude. The reason RMI "pressure breathing" won't work is that the pressure is created by contraction of the chest wall muscles against a partially closed airway as opposed to having a high pressure mask and breathing normally.

 

Of course, pilot masks are aid.

[griz]

I think it gives tourists something to think about other than the mind-numbing plodding.

 

Really. I'm serious.

I've heard that exact thing too. I believe it.

 

wow. are you guys really serious?

 

two clueless wanks ,if so.

[lummox]

um. just do it?

[MITllama02]

Dr. Schoene, high altitude pulmonologist and climber, told me that pressure breathing does not help you adjust to altitude, and that he thinks the RMI guides advocate it to keep clients busy thinking about something else besides how bad they feel.

[griz]

so all the times I've had nausea,tunnel vision, light headednes then pressure breathed for a spell and rid myself of these things was just my imagination? Doubt it.

 

Disbelieve away,ladies and gents. Knowing how to breath at altitude is a keystone for success. You may be able to get away with shitty breathing technique on little mtns like Rainier but go higher to true high altitude mtns and you are going to be hurting. Everyone I climb with on a regular basis(5-6 climbers w/ 20-30 years+ experience each) has climbed to at least 23k - 28k and all swear by it as much as I do. It's a not trick for tourons but a effective tool for experienced climbers.