airmoss Posted April 26, 2005 Share Posted April 26, 2005 (edited) Climb: Lane Peak-Middle Gully Date of Climb: 4/24/2005 Trip Report: Climbed the middle gully of Lane Peak yesterday. Boy the snow was soft, especially at the top. I would not do it again until it is feezing over night, at which time it should be really nice. This is one of my favorite training climbs. Great views and just enough steep and exposure to make it interesting. There was a group of about six player in the left gully. Looked pretty nasty and I'm curious to hear how they did. The rock band about half way up was out, and the traverse into the middle gully looked very thin. Most importantly, I'm please to announce that Scale Burger is open for business! Gear Notes: Ice Axe - I wish it was about 3 feet longer Crampons Edited April 26, 2005 by airmoss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin_B Posted April 26, 2005 Share Posted April 26, 2005 nice work! which one is the "middle gully"? are you referring to Zipper Couloir or Fly Couloir? got any pics? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airmoss Posted April 26, 2005 Author Share Posted April 26, 2005 You know, I get the route names all confused. There are three routes on the north side: the fly, zipper, and lover's lane. I've climbed all three. I think the middle route is the fly, but I'm not really sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin_B Posted April 27, 2005 Share Posted April 27, 2005 You know, I get the route names all confused. There are three routes on the north side: the fly, zipper, and lover's lane. I've climbed all three. I think the middle route is the fly, but I'm not really sure. From left to right (looking at the north face) they are Lover's Lane, the zipper, and the fly. Whey you said "middle" I was thinking you meant the zipper. When we were up there in the middle of march the zipper was looking somewhat 'thin' for March. We climbed the fly. I would imagine the zipper is looking really thin right now! hence why I asked. perhaps there is another couloir to the right of the fly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin_B Posted April 27, 2005 Share Posted April 27, 2005 Lane Peak The obvious couloir up the center is the fly. You can't make out the zipper from here but it angles up left from the snowfield at the base of the fly. Lover's Lane is a very thin streak on the left. to which ever route you did Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airmoss Posted April 28, 2005 Author Share Posted April 28, 2005 (edited) Ok, I did the Zipper. Thanks for the pics. It was not really that thin, just scary because it was so soft. I had to swim from the point where lovers lane joins the route. Once it freezes it's going to be fantastic. Edited April 28, 2005 by airmoss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thos Posted May 7, 2005 Share Posted May 7, 2005 We had a great climb up Lovers Lane. Really appreciated the steps you kicked up through the top of the Zipper.Snow was very soft in making the travese into the Zipper, but very Sporty to coin a phrase. Encountered 2 rock steps. 1st was unprotectable, the second we found 1 piton and gladly clipped it. We used crampons, ropes, 2 pickets per team and 1 ice tool. We did not continue to the top as the snow was very soft and we were very tired and had gotten our kicks for the day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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