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AlpinistAndrew

[TR] Attempt on Cutthroat- East Couloir 4/20/2005

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Climb: Attempt on Cutthroat-East Couloir

 

Date of Climb: 4/20/2005

 

Trip Report:

Masternate and I attempted the East Couloir of Cutthroat on 4/20, but did not summit. As NOLSe reported, attempt it at first light, cause as soon as the sun hits that mountain shit starts melting fast. We made it up the first pitch with spindrift slides coming down constantly and the ice was melting, but there and climable. A big snow slide hit as Nate led up the first pitch, thought he was coming off. Made it to the crux pitch but opted to rappel and get off the thing since everything was coming apart. Just as we were pulling the ropes at the base of the gully another big avalanche spilled down the couloir and we were happy to be outa there. Slides were occuring all over, small wet slides, but slides nonethe less. But the ice is still there, get it while it lasts. Fun time though, nothing like an avalanche washing over you.

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got any pics? I'm curious to see what it's looking like now. Glad to see you made it out of there OK, slides there would be pretty scary. You pulled the 'crux' though if you made it to the first belay.

Edited by wazzumountaineer

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We left the car at 6 am, but didn't move very quick on the approach. NOLSe and his partner had left the parking lot a few minutes before us and we figured that we would rather have them a couple pitches ahead of us then a few feet, just because of icefall. If your gonna do it, I would suggest getting on the route no later then 7am. I was amazed at how many point releases were coming down. I think once you get out of the couloir and up above that snowfield, you should be quite a bit safer, but down lower, you are in the shooting gallery.

 

The route is in fabulous condition though. It so fat that I think the difficulty is far less then the guide suggests. Nothing harder then WI3, albeit with some crummy ice. Have fun, stay safe.

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i remember leaving the car at 3am and wishing i did the whole thing pre-dawn, it gets soft. remember folks, this climb is EAST facing and gets 1st light and it gets it good.

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When Paco and I did this we also left about 3am. I would have not minded another hour either.

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Thanks all. Leaving at 3 am was a good call, and put us just above the dihedral when the sun hit. Fun climb!

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anybody think this route might still be in?

 

Dave, Micah, and I left the car at ~3am on Saturday morning to answer this question for ourselves.

 

The answer is "no".

 

The crux pitch (2nd pitch) has no ice, but plenty of running water. The first pitch required some difficult (for me) mixed climbing, but had some spots of good ice and nice neve. Dave tore off a big chunk of some of the best stuff on the first pitch and tried to kill Micah and me with it.

 

We did some cool "extreme snowshoeing" on the way out.

 

456405-Cutthroat4-05025.jpg

 

BTW: There are some of the most beautiful boulders I've seen anywhere in Washington located in the basin below the east face of Cutthroat. Start scrubbin'!

456405-Cutthroat4-05025.jpg.743c6aeccbef071e3a8fdc2295a6e7b7.jpg

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i was up in the wine spires on saturday looking over at cuttroat while sunning myself and thinking about AlpineDave's question. Then I thought to myself, "i really hope he wasn't serious when he asked that question"

I'd be amazed if the NW face of stuart or d-tail was still in. I bet the glacier couloir is though.

 

did you guys pay respects to my poop?

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I'd be amazed if the NW face of stuart or d-tail was still in. I bet the glacier couloir is though.

 

The 1st pitch of NW face is thin and rotten. If one could manage to levitate the first pitch or push an alternate start the upper portion of the route looked more "in". Triple C looks worse then it did in both Feb. and March.

 

Ice in Stuart Glacier Couloir is much fatter then last year and should stay in at least through the end of the month if not longer (pending weather patterns).

 

Some avy acitivity on north facing slopes. Be careful out there!

 

Yo Mikey! Did you get your FA?

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Not yet, the postholing/stumbling/faceplanting through the krumholtz took way way too long so i just scoped (looks good)

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