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TR 11worth - Imelda Marcos Style


Dru

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Two people and 9 pairs of shoes from BC (!! blush.gif) went cragging in 11worth.

 

The climbers were:

Mer (rope gun)

Dru (sprayer)

 

We didn't actually switch shoes mid-pitch, but I think we did wear different pairs of shoes on every route we climbed. tongue.gif

 

Friday climbed at Icicle Butt and area.

Saturday climbed at Sam Hill area.

Sunday climbed at Castle Rock area.

 

Made a few sightings - Alex in der Safeway parking lot, and the back side of Cpt.Caveman and Chepe heading for Castle Rock Saturday AM.

 

Found some booty - a rigid Friend on the B.O.B. Wall. Found some more booty in the form of a nut and hex on Castle but they were stuck too good to get out so they are still there cry.gif

 

Last route we climbed on Castle Sunday was "Century". In 1991, when I was leading Sabre for maybe my 3rd or 4th lead ever, my friends Kobus and Muriel did Century so they could keep an eye on me and maybe swing over if I got into difficulty.. and I have always had this idea that Century was hard and scary. Well it isn't hard but it is scary! Of the first 5 pieces I had in 2 fell out and 2 more were crap shocked.gif tHen it gets solid but easier. It might have been the funnest climb I did all weekend. thumbs_up.gif

 

No ticks but hundreds of thousands of snaffles were seen.

snaf.gifsnaf.gifsnaf.gifsnaf.gifsnaf.gifsnaf.gif

 

Good times laugh.gifthumbs_up.gif

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That hex is strange...it moves around easily, and it doesn't seem beat on at all. And yet it is in a pocket that it seems like it cannot fit through the entrance of. how did it get in there? Did the rock grow around it confused.gif

 

Also I looked in Der Sportsman and Leavenworth Mtn Sports and couldn't find any donation boxes for the Save Sam Hill fund so I guess I'm gonna have to donate online.

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Well it isn't hard but it is scary! Of the first 5 pieces I had in 2 fell out and 2 more were crap shocked.gif tHen it gets solid but easier. It might have been the funnest climb I did all weekend. thumbs_up.gif

 

Dude, remind me not to call you when I'm partnerless. Free soloing sounds safer.

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Dru exaggerates, I'm a sad excuse for a ropegun, there were only seven pairs of shoes, three of the five pieces were adequate, one pulled out and one was pretty marginal. The place was alive with snaffles though, no ticks sighted, but I had dozens of twitchy, phantom-tick false alarms.

Good times laugh.gif booty thumbs_up.gif

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Well, if you pre-protect it from above by dangling long slings on hexes through the crack (as I believe was commonly done), it's sort of like a sport climb.

 

With one enormous difference. Do you think you can figure it out?

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cry.gif I can't believe how you guys are spraying on my trip report! cry.gif Where is the rainbows and kittens feel-good "Great TR! Thanks for sharing! Wow, you climbed a 5.8, that's so awesome!" ego stroking? tongue.gif

 

Dru complaining someone is spraying on his trip report? yelrotflmao.gif

 

Sorry about that. Way to climb 5.8! rockband.gif

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I find it interesting that you highlight a climb you considered scary as the "funnest" climb you did.

 

Doesn't this often seem the case? I too think of pitches that were scary as the most memorable and fulfilling. Unless it really is a case of "I'm really lucky I'm not dead now", there seems to be a very gratifying feeling of conquest, over the pitch perhaps, and definitely over your own fear.

 

Note the scary pitches people also rave about as must do's (Canary, Shock Treatment, American Pie, Damnation Crack, Sagitarius, other...?). I don't think these recommendations are due to people being mean spirited, but of a genuine feeling that the climb is a good test, and pumps you up when you've succeeded.

 

Anybody wanna weigh in on this, or perhaps add to the list of scary, but doable and fulfilling pitches?

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The 3rd ish pitch on Banana Peel (the one where you step up onto the slab and go right), if you have never done runout slab. That was my second trad climb, back in the day. My first trad climb was the 5.4 at Sugarloaf, the same day. Those runouts on Banana peel seemed endless, but VERY gratifying. On the second to last pitch, I ran out of rope (this is before I knew was simulclimbing was and simul the rest now) and had to do a gear belay just below the "rock belay".

I was scared to death and never let go of the rock.

The belay had every peice of gear left on me.

That route is still one of my favorites because I enjoy the very things that scared me then.

It's all relative I guess.

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I think it was coincidental that on this trip the route which was the most fun was also the scariest. I can think of plenty of situations where the two do not coincide.

 

I think the first pitch of Canary is the scary one, there always seems to be wasps where they are not wanted. That feeling where you slot in a finger jam and then feel something alive crawl on your finger just as you weight it never fails to unnerve me. blush.gif

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