Mt. Shasta - Casaval Ridge

[dragonfly_climber]

A group of us are setting out to climb mt. shasta this weekend by way of Casaval Ridge. We've climbed Avalanche gulch before but know little about this ridge route.

 

Understanding that there has been a lot of snow fall this week, which should continue into this weekend, does anyone have color on where the potential avalanche risks might be while on this route (key land marks to look for)? We don't know what to expect in terms of conditions but are prepared for high winds.

 

Questions?

1. Will we need beacons because of the recent snowfall?

2. Will ropes be needed/preferred for a team of 4

3. How much time should we allow for summit from 10,500?

4. Any idea of temp - not sure what type of layering to go with

5. Any chance of a glissade on the gulch given all the snow (i think i know the answer but curious)

 

It looks like the only chance we will have to summit is on Sunday, due to the weather forecast of snow on Saturday and Monday.

 

Any advice would be most appreciated

 

Thanks!

[alexbaker]

1. Might as well. There is a gully that you might cross before the upper ridge that i think has great avalanche potential. I say might because it depends on the route you take. If you stay on the ridge as best as possible, dangers will be minimized, but certainly not eliminated.

2. Depends on how comfy you are. the ridge can be nicely exposed at times, and sometimes steep enough that self arrest is not practical, depending on conditions. Not overly technical though, so if you are confident in your step i think a rope may be extra weight. Oh, about quest 1. If you are camping where i think you are (just below the ridge proper on the east side), there can be avy danger getting there, especially if you head right up the gully.

3. time, depends on how fast you are. given recent snow, plan on a long day.

4. i have no idea

5. Glissading the gulch might be nice, but keep in mind "avalanche" gulch. Decending the ridge might not be that bad, Ive decended the lower half and after you already have steps in this is very straightforward. Good luck

 

youve checked climbingmountshasta.com right?

[BigLegs]

1)The avalanche danger will be at least as dependent on the wind patterns as the amount of snow; when we were there the places that seemed like they would have the highest danger based on slope angle (the 'hourglass' above the pinnacles and the gullies leading out of the upper ridge to the false summit) were blasted completely clean by downslope winds but a reasonable amount of unstable snow had accumulated on the flank of the pinnacles - we didn't have beacons but they may have been a good idea there. Ultimately its got to be your call based on the avalanche forecast and your level of risk whether you go with beacons, no beacons or no go.

 

2)We didn't bring a rope, and were glad not to be carrying the weight.

 

3)The last practical camp is right at the beginning of the pinnacle traverse section, that is about 10,500 - from there it took us 5-6 hours in nearly ideal snow conditions.

 

4)Check the forecast. Above timberline the wind is usually ferocious this time of year, bring a balaclava, etc. We had a strong headwind the entire trip up.

 

5)Unless you ski don't do it. Instead, leave as much gear as you feel safe leaving at camp and have a lighter summit day. I'd descend the west face gully route and traverse back to the ridge once you're below the steeper/more exposed upper section.

[Chriznitch]

I would guess the main trouble areas for new snow would be the climb up to the ridge (above the hut) and the headwall (above the pinnacles).

If you guys camp at 10500 it shouldn't take more than 5 hours unless you're slow.

One of the beauties of this route is that it isn't too difficult to descend...if you're bored go down Sergeants which is a little easier and would offer some different scenery...

I would personally go "light and fast" to avoid camping and heavy packs and team ropework, but it would be an awesome place to camp!