brothaweed Posted April 1, 2005 Share Posted April 1, 2005 Hello to anyone out there that can give me any beta. I am climbing Sargents Ridge on Mt. Shasta in five days with two buddies. They have slight alpine/mountaineering experience. I have rock climbed for 13 years, yet have no experience with mountaineering. This will be my first alpine-style climb. I am looking for ANY advice on the actual route (Sargents Ridge), and am looking for any advice for a novice/beginner mountaineer-style climber. What kind of equip. might I need other than ice axe, crampons, and warm clothing? Do I need rope for Sargents Ridge? Do I need snow shoes for the approach to Sargents Ridge? Underwear... polypro? Staying dry... water to drink, do I need a stove? What about the human feces I keep hearing about? What about hiking poles? Do I need avalanche beacons? Again, ANY info, as basic as you might think it is. Please share! Thanks for anything you might be able to share!!! I'm out!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigLegs Posted April 1, 2005 Share Posted April 1, 2005 Haven't been on sargeant's ridge but was on Casaval ridge late march or early april three times Definitely bring snowshoes for the approach from bunny flat, even if you leave them at the base of the ridge/gulch, you'll be glad to have them for the hike out. Mt. Shasta is famous for wind; one year we crawled out of our bomber northface tent at a 10,000 ft camp on Casaval ridge to see another party's tent completely collapsed. It would be reasonable to expect you will be facing a 50-100mph headwind for most or all of the ascent. Make sure you have a good full-body windshell setup (ie bibs and shell). You might want a balaclava too. 14,000 feet is high, if you aren't used to that kind of altitude think about setting up a high camp (there were good spots between 10,000 and 10,500 on Casaval, don't know about Sargents) to maximize your chances of summitting. The wind makes this somewhat unpleasant though; if you plan to camp at timberline, I would do a true alpine (aka midnight) start. A rope was never necessary for us and I think Sargent's ridge is the same, but it is important to be competent with your ice axe as there will be some pretty steep hard-packed snow on the upper ridge probably. They have free kitty litter bags at the trailhead for you to use for your solid by-products. Lots of useful info is available at climbing mount shasta. We always stopped by the black bear diner in mt shasta city afterwards, that place rocks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonnV Posted April 2, 2005 Share Posted April 2, 2005 I'd also recommend checking out Fifth Season They have a recorded report (see the link on their home page) but I've also had good luck calling them directly right before heading down there. I've always been able to talk to someone in the store who was just up on the mountain, and they've been dead on with current route conditions. Seem to be good folks, and they could answer any of your questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markharf Posted April 2, 2005 Share Posted April 2, 2005 You sound a bit out of your depth. If so, best proceed with caution, especially if it's also out of your friends' depth. climbing conditions: http://www.shastaavalanche.org/reports.htm avalanche report: http://www.shastaavalanche.org/advisory.htm Plus, as everyone will tell you, The Fifth Season. There are also a few guidebooks. Don't know your route, but I've skied on Green Butte Ridge (which is the direct route from Bunny Flat to connect with Sargents Ridge somewhere around 12,000 feet), and I sure wouldn't head up that way without snowshoes or (preferably) skis. Enjoy, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertjoy Posted April 2, 2005 Share Posted April 2, 2005 Let's see... experience: slight to none. And apparently your friends were not able to answer your very basic questions about mountaineering. Other writers have mentioned the very common problem of high wind/extreme cold. Do you imagine that your two friends could successfully lead you down from the summit in 80mph wind and sub-zero temps for maybe 6 hours? You didn't mention wands or GPS, how about descending in a white-out? You seem to be assuming that an early season clmb of Shasta requires no prior experience. I hope you and your friends will honestly address your ability to cope with the "dangerous" conditions which occur commonly on Mt. Shasta. I would suggest starting with a summer climb with at least one experienced companion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsroll Posted April 4, 2005 Share Posted April 4, 2005 Hope you have enough gear for the cold. I second what robertjoy said. Also you have not had any alpine experence at alitude, not a good thing. Pass on this trip and go later in the year and have better weather. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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