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Rate the Fake Cracks


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Coach's Crack-5.9 all for feet. 10a texture only

Crack to the right of coach's-10

Climbing the diagonal crack on the wall to left of coach's crack via layback/texture only 5.11a

Spinechopper (Crack on the N facing overhanging wall)-10a all for feet-11 texture only

 

Sounds about right, except for:

 

Crack on the right side of overhang, using rock immediately above crack to access the top-5.9 all for feet. 10b/c texture/crack only

 

I saw Jeff Robertson do that brutal shallow fist to get the swing to the top, and .10 b/c it is not. I could never commit to the swing move.

 

Slab to the right of the roof, locks and texture only, .10- slab, classic.

 

North wall: left side classic .9+ to scary .10+ to the notch. Sit-start makes it harder. Much.

Right side: rocks: .10, texture?

 

South Wall: classic 5.9 to shallow flaring .10; Sit start makes the first bit .10-; Texture at the start .10-; Again, I saw Jeff do this texture only to the top, and I would guess scary .11+

 

Nothing tops the Lad's double dyno to the notch on the North Wall, however.

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Club Sport hand crack on right as you come in...5.9

thin hands on pillar with hand traverse...5.10

short thin one in back...5.10+

 

PRG over hanging thin hands on far wall....5.10+

fingers by old school metolius tiles....5.10

wide thing to the right of the finger crack...5.8

 

Seattle: From the train station, head towards the water. Underneath the Freeway right near the ferry's are columns that support the Freeway above,which have perfect "IHC" size splitters which are fairly long....5.10-/5.9+

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Here's an online topo for those who like to climb on concrete.

http://members.tripod.com/~Schryer/marymoore.html

As for Spire Rock, I have the old guide from '82 at home.

The ratings are as follows.

Lieback Crack (the one to the right of the roof)

Using crack and any feet - 5.4

Lieback all the way - 5.7

Jamming with hands/feet in crack (no face holds) - 5.9

 

On North Wall from left to right:

Strawberry Jam Crack - 5.6

Vanishing Crack - 5.6

Half Crack - 5.6

Classic Crack - 5.4

 

South Tower Wall:

Finger Crack (hands and toes in crack) - 5.9

Elbow Delight (OW):

Right Arm In - 5.7

Right Side In Using Crack Only (no face holds) - 5.8

Left Arm In - 5.8

Left Side In Using Crack Only (no face holds) - 5.9+

 

- Mike

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