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Marmot74

Glacier Travel Gear

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Dangers of using a 'bile on glaciers. smirk.gif

 

I would start off with having a rope and harness...that is attached to one or two other people to stop you from falling into a crevasse. After that, it depends on the glacier (if you want an iceaxe, crampons, etc depends on the steepness). You'll also want something to setup anchors on the glacier, and some pulleys to pull them out. Whatever gear you take with you, you'll need to know how to use it first.

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Make SURE you know what you are doing before you go tromping across a glacier. It's worth the effort to take a class, read a book, whatever. Because if your buddy goes in a slot and you can't fish him out because your a newb, you'll kick yourself forever. Plus, it only takes away from the pleasure of the trip knowing that your gear is worthless cause you can't use it well.

If you have practiced and are confident, a buddy going in a slot MAY be a five minute delay in the trip and a few laughs.

Maybe this will get you started:

 

glacier travel 1

glacier travel 2

glacier travel 3

crevasse rescue 1

crevasse rescue 2

crevasse rescue 3

 

For glacier gear you generally want if you're a newbie:

ice axe around $100

Crampons around $100

30-50 meter 8.3 mm rope (generally for glacier only used singly) around $100

Alpine Harness(light and doesn't absorb water) $40

One picket each (travel in groups >=3 for newbies). $30

1-2 ice screws each if no snow on ice(usually depends on season) $50

webbing for pickets, pack etc... $10

waist prussik and feet prussik $10

pulley $15

1 locking belay biner $20.00

1 ATC $15 (or munter hitch=$0)

2-3 additional locking biners $25

4-6 biners $25

 

Just general guidelines above. Be safe (please).

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I generally use:

30 m 8.3 mm rope

alpine harness

1 picket w/ 24" runner and biner

ice axe with long leash

crampons

waist prussik ( 5mm cord, locking biner)

foot prussik (5mm cord, 48" runner , locking biner)

1 belay biner

3 extra biners

1 48" tied runner

1 24" sewn runner

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in addition to Bill's suggestions:

a DMM Revolver 'biner (w/a built in pulley) on the travelling prussik.

Tiblocs are nice.

probe/ski pole to probe for hidden slots.

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Don't worry I have lots of training and experience. Just thought I would post it here so everyone could see what other people are carrying.

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Oh, IC!

In the Cascades:

30m rope 8.3 mm rope

crampons- BD Sabertootsh or GrivelG10's depending on boots.

ice axe-BD Raven Pro

picket

mammut alpine lite harness

3 24" mammut runners (one for waist prussik)

1 48" mammut runner (foot prussik)

1 48" tied runner.

1 petzl attache

2 trango superfly lockers

4 trango superflys

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